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The lack of traffic

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  • Adam Bunn
    We had a massive load of threads just after I joined but then it all died down. The thing is, barring technical advice and personal projects, there isn t much
    Message 1 of 4 , Nov 2, 1999
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      We had a massive load of threads just after I joined but then it all died
      down. The thing is, barring technical advice and personal projects, there
      isn't much to talk about is there?

      Anyway, I'd have to say that one of the hardest things I find in sculpting
      is getting smooth areas. Recently I was converting a GW Space Marine
      Terminator Captain, and I wanted to make him look a lot bigger and well
      armoured. After thickening his feet with some chunky grip, I tried to add
      another layer of armour to his greaves (lower legs), but I just couldn't get
      a smooth effect. In the end I decided to use this to my advantage and make
      the armour cracked and battle worn, but I would appreciate any advice on how
      to get it smooth. I was using green stuff.

      Thanks, Adam.


      >From: JPPatton1@...
      >Reply-To: 1listSculpting@onelist.com
      >To: 1listSculpting@onelist.com
      >Subject: Re: [1listSculpting] Welcome new members
      >Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:24:16 EDT
      >
      >From: JPPatton1@...
      >
      >
      ><< This list seems to have a lot of silent members. Anyway welcome to all
      >those
      > who have joined within the last 4 or 5 days.>>
      >
      > Apparently so. . . .
      > Greetings. ;)
      >
      ><< Does anyone have a go at sculpting figures other than 25 or 28mm. I have
      > been meaning to have a go at 15mm for some time and I am half way through
      > doing a 100mm English longbowman ( it is one of those projects that I go
      > back to every now and again).>>
      >
      > My attempts so far have been in the 25-100mm range. I've done a couple
      >different types of beasties, all of them horrific enough for me to be able
      >to
      >ignore some basic realism elements I can't grasp yet. ;)
      >
      > <<Anyway here is picture of one of the Aether Mariners (Victorian SF)
      >that I
      > sculpted for Scheltrum Miniatures.
      > If you would like to see more let me know, or check out the web site
      >below.>>
      >
      > Very cool. I'm not familiar with the company -- have you got a url?
      >
      > Otherwise, only one question for the moment: is it usually this quiet?
      >
      ><< Cheers
      >
      > David Drage >>
      >
      > thanks,
      >
      > Joel Patton
      >
      >
    • Richard Marchant
      ... get ... make ... how ... I ll tell you what I do: First of all, make sure that the modeling tol that you use is wet, green stuff can set underwater, and so
      Message 2 of 4 , Nov 2, 1999
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        > We had a massive load of threads just after I joined but then it all died
        > down. The thing is, barring technical advice and personal projects, there
        > isn't much to talk about is there?
        >
        > Anyway, I'd have to say that one of the hardest things I find in sculpting
        > is getting smooth areas. Recently I was converting a GW Space Marine
        > Terminator Captain, and I wanted to make him look a lot bigger and well
        > armoured. After thickening his feet with some chunky grip, I tried to add
        > another layer of armour to his greaves (lower legs), but I just couldn't
        get
        > a smooth effect. In the end I decided to use this to my advantage and
        make
        > the armour cracked and battle worn, but I would appreciate any advice on
        how
        > to get it smooth. I was using green stuff.

        I'll tell you what I do: First of all, make sure that the modeling tol that
        you use is wet, green stuff can set underwater, and so it won't affect the
        drying time. It should allow you to smooth the surface quite nicely. Also-
        don't do the whole way around the leg all in one go, as there will always be
        an unsmoothed area oon the back of the smooth side.

        Also- bulk out the leg first, wait for that to dry, and then add the "final
        layer" which is much easier to get smooth, as it's thinner. Think of it as
        adding armoured plates to the model

        Make sure that you use the right modeling tool as well. My tool is tempered,
        so that it bends life a pallet knife when used on the model (doesn't stay
        ridge) and is very thin, flat and smooth.

        Hope this helps =)
        BTW- We have nearly 40 people on this list now! Feel free to share your
        modeling experiances with us, or ask questions etc.

        Riki
      • Bill Landrum
        Adam, I agree that the traffic has died down. I hope that it means we are all busy building new creations. I m in the middle of one now and will post step by
        Message 3 of 4 , Nov 2, 1999
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          Adam,

          I agree that the traffic has died down. I hope that it means we are all busy
          building new creations. I'm in the middle of one now and will post step by step
          pics when finished. Hopefully by this weeks end.

          Now to answer your question. I smooth the green stuff with water or spit.
          Denatured Alcohol works as well, even better, but the smell is quite strong.
          I've seen others use petroleum jelly to slick things up, but you have to clean
          it up with denatured alcohol to paint it, so you can skip a step and go straight
          to the alcohol.

          As always at your service,

          Colonel G. Hairy Haggis

          Adam Bunn wrote:

          > From: "Adam Bunn" <keeper2001@...>
          >
          > We had a massive load of threads just after I joined but then it all died
          > down. The thing is, barring technical advice and personal projects, there
          > isn't much to talk about is there?
          >
          > Anyway, I'd have to say that one of the hardest things I find in sculpting
          > is getting smooth areas. Recently I was converting a GW Space Marine
          > Terminator Captain, and I wanted to make him look a lot bigger and well
          > armoured. After thickening his feet with some chunky grip, I tried to add
          > another layer of armour to his greaves (lower legs), but I just couldn't get
          > a smooth effect. In the end I decided to use this to my advantage and make
          > the armour cracked and battle worn, but I would appreciate any advice on how
          > to get it smooth. I was using green stuff.
          >
          > Thanks, Adam.
          >
          > >From: JPPatton1@...
          > >Reply-To: 1listSculpting@onelist.com
          > >To: 1listSculpting@onelist.com
          > >Subject: Re: [1listSculpting] Welcome new members
          > >Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:24:16 EDT
          > >
          > >From: JPPatton1@...
          > >
          > >
          > ><< This list seems to have a lot of silent members. Anyway welcome to all
          > >those
          > > who have joined within the last 4 or 5 days.>>
          > >
          > > Apparently so. . . .
          > > Greetings. ;)
          > >
          > ><< Does anyone have a go at sculpting figures other than 25 or 28mm. I have
          > > been meaning to have a go at 15mm for some time and I am half way through
          > > doing a 100mm English longbowman ( it is one of those projects that I go
          > > back to every now and again).>>
          > >
          > > My attempts so far have been in the 25-100mm range. I've done a couple
          > >different types of beasties, all of them horrific enough for me to be able
          > >to
          > >ignore some basic realism elements I can't grasp yet. ;)
          > >
          > > <<Anyway here is picture of one of the Aether Mariners (Victorian SF)
          > >that I
          > > sculpted for Scheltrum Miniatures.
          > > If you would like to see more let me know, or check out the web site
          > >below.>>
          > >
          > > Very cool. I'm not familiar with the company -- have you got a url?
          > >
          > > Otherwise, only one question for the moment: is it usually this quiet?
          > >
          > ><< Cheers
          > >
          > > David Drage >>
          > >
          > > thanks,
          > >
          > > Joel Patton
          > >
          > >
          >
        • David Drage
          Have you tried wetting the sculpting tool. I find that if you have a smooth stainless steel tool and it is wet, if you repeatedly draw it across the green
          Message 4 of 4 , Nov 3, 1999
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            Have you tried wetting the sculpting tool. I find that if you have a smooth
            stainless steel tool and it is wet, if you repeatedly draw it across the
            green stuff it will smooth it out. This technique is called burnishing and
            seems to work very well if the green stuff is starting to stiffen up a bit.

            I hope this helps!

            David Drage

            Model, Design & Craft
            120 Union Grove
            Aberdeen
            AB10 6SB
            United Kingdom

            http://www.crosswinds.net/~modelcraft/modelhome.html
            http://www.crosswinds.net/~modelcraft/battleg/battleground.html

            modelcraft@...

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Adam Bunn <keeper2001@...>
            To: <1listSculpting@onelist.com>
            Sent: 02 November 1999 12:42
            Subject: [1listSculpting] The lack of traffic


            > Anyway, I'd have to say that one of the hardest things I find in sculpting
            > is getting smooth areas. Recently I was converting a GW Space Marine
            > Terminator Captain, and I wanted to make him look a lot bigger and well
            > armoured. After thickening his feet with some chunky grip, I tried to add
            > another layer of armour to his greaves (lower legs), but I just couldn't
            get
            > a smooth effect. In the end I decided to use this to my advantage and
            make
            > the armour cracked and battle worn, but I would appreciate any advice on
            how
            > to get it smooth. I was using green stuff.
            >
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