Thanks Bob, I was hoping I was doing the correct thing using the Hot Glue I did experiment with a few coils and my inductance meter and found very littleMessage 1 of 6 , Mar 1, 2011View SourceThanks Bob,I was hoping I was doing the correct thing using the "Hot Glue" I did experimentwith a few coils and my inductance meter and found very little (micro) changesin measured values.Hace a Great Day and Thank You for all your help and support to the SoftRockgroup.Cheers, Jeff - K9JP
On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 12:56 PM, g8voip <g8voi.reeves59@...> wrote:
Hot glue is another good alternative, with the advantage like RTV that it can easily be removed if needed. At HF frequencies none of the materials mentioned have any adverse effects on the performance.
Murphy's law dictates that if you knock and break a coil or transformer, its going to be the one with the most turns :)
73, Bob G8VOI> On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 12:13 PM, g8voip <g8voi.reeves59@...>wrote:
--- In email@example.com, Jeffrey Peters <dek9jp@...> wrote:
> Greetings Bob,
> On the filter coils, in the past I have used "Clear Hot Glue" found at most
> craft stores here in the
> US. This is applied with a heater type gun/tool made for the glue which
> comes in stick form.
> Do you have nay thoughts pro or con on the use of the Hot Glue methodfor
> fixing the filter coils.
> Thanks, Jeff - K9JP
> > Hi William, the coil mounting will have little or no effect on the values,
> > so nothing to worry about. In reality all of the tuned circuits are broad,
> > so providing you follow the winding instructions, all will be fine.
> > As far as mounting, I use a small piece of sleeving on the centre two leads
> > on the binocular cores and toroids where there are 6 leads. That is enough
> > to ensure that you do not get any shorts under the coils.
> > For the filter coils, I mount them snug to the PCB, and once happy all is
> > working secure them with either 2 part epoxy glue or RTV to make sure they
> > do not get accidentally damaged.
> > 73, Bob g8VOI
> > --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "William MacCracken" <billmacc@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > So far, I have installed one transformer (T1 from the local oscillator
> > > build stage). I read the notes
> > > <
> > http://www.wb5rvz.com/sdr/common/Common_Component_Mounting.htm#transfor\
> > <http://www.wb5rvz.com/sdr/common/Common_Component_Mounting.htm#transfor>>
> > mers> on binocular transformers. They state, "...slip a 1/8" piece of
> > > insulation onto the S1a and S1b leads to act as a spacer for the actual
> > > mounting". The binocular core in the example has six leads and the two
> > > center ones, logically, have the spacers. However, T1 (the one I have
> > > so far installed) has four leads so I put 1/8 of insulation over each of
> > > them. My t1 is now sitting on four little insulation stilts. Is this
> > > correct, good enough, or bad?
> > >
> > > Whereas in the example 2 spacers were used, can 6 be used to keep things
> > > snug and level?
> > >
> > > Similar questions about toroidal cores. The WB5RVZ mounting
> > > instructions state, "the builder should pull each lead pair through the
> > > holes until the transformer is snug to the board." but in link
> > > <http://www.wb5rvz.com/sdr/common/ToroidWindingHints.htm> to expert
> > > advice Tony Parks writes, "Allow each transformer to stand vertically
> > > about 1/8 of an inch above the board with each lead otherwise pulled
> > > snug from the bottom of the board. " So, with toroidal cores should
> > > the core be pulled snug to the board? Or an 1/8th? Should 1/8th
> > > insulation spacers be used?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any clarification. I don't have a meter to measure the
> > > windings so I want to be sure I don't increase any deviation from
> > > desired values.
> > >