Good points, Nadya! I think that we will
eventually find an authoritative answer to the
dushegreya debate at some point when materials of that
nature begin surfacing. And I copletely agree,
initially there were no "Tatars" in Northern Russia>
However, beginning in the 14th century the Kostroma
tatars became Moscovite clients, though autonimous.
There were several other groups operating as clients
of both the Poles and the Novgorodians, in turn and as
advantages lay in what is now Bylorussia.
Also, an estimated 17% of Russian nobles on the
rolls at the beginning of the 15th C were Tatars or at
least had Tatar names, and by the 16th C an estimated
60-70% of the Moscovite nobility had Tatar ancestery.
I have a very interesting study on this with detailed
stats in my research binders at home.
Also by this period there are quite a few Tatar
words in the Russian lexicon, garments in the wardrobe
and "traditions" that are being assimilated into
Russian culture. Mating, dating, relating. The usual
haphazard human interaction scenerio. Influences are
heaviest along the Wild Field borders and Central
Volga but its a mistake to underestimate the value of
the classic "good idea" imitation.
MOST IMPORTANTLY and quite literally, ANYONE on
this list can make a dushegreya this very afternoon
using an old caftan or tunic, a pair of scissors and a
needle/thread. Add this to the documented re-cutting
of garments multiple times to the level of bits and
pieces in the Domostroi. That's actually the basis of
my new Russian costuming class currently in
development, "The Complete Russian in One Hour for NO
MONEY". I'll be teaching it at Pennsic this year.
--- Stephanie Ross <hlaislinn@...
> Sofya wrote:
> ...Rabinovich .... says of the dushegreya merely,
> > sarafan and yubka were sometimes supplemented by
> > dushegreya - a short (in most cases without
> > women's jacket, open down the front, gathered in
> > back with a multitude of gathers,
> > embracing the body in a sumptuous ring
> > (Giliarovskaya, 1945, p. 43)." That's it.
> > So the evidence must be pretty scant.
> Then Mordak wrote:
> <The only corrobarating evidence I have found was
> in nature and mostly confined to Central asia and
> China where it has been common since the Wan
> I think I still have an article speculating that it
> came with the Ta'tar as it was most widespread in
> those areas but that is the purest speculation until
> more information comes to light. >
> I read somewhere that the sarafan was popular only
> in northern Russia until
> after our period when it became widespread enough to
> become a main part of
> Russian "folk costume". That makes sense to me if
> one considers the sarafan
> to have evolved from the Viking apron-dress.
> However, I thought the Tatars
> didn't make it up into Moscow and Novgorod which is
> why Moscow became the
> capitol over Kiev. I can't get to my research binder
> at the moment because
> it's in the bedroom and hubby is sleeping, or I'd
> find out exactly where
> those ideas came from. My point is with those two
> bits of information it
> seems unlikely that the dushegreya would have become
> paired with the
> sarafan. The dushegreya has me stumped because I
> can't find a corresponding
> article of clothing in another culture, although
> China appears the most
> likely place. The reason I feel it is Imperial
> (Baroque, Colonial,
> whatever, 1700's) is because paintings from that
> timeperiod show women
> wearing them over sarafans. Korneyev painted the
> dushegreya on peasants in
> 1802. Georgi drew a woman from the Kaluga region
> wearing one in the early
> 1770's. Le Prince drew a woman in one in 1760. It's
> weird though, because
> when Geissler painted them in the 1790's, he wasn't
> consistant. In some
> paintings it looks like a shortened sarafan over a
> floral skirt. In photos
> from around 1900, it looks like it could be the same
> as I just mentioned,
> or a peplum attached to the sarafan - the sorochka,
> skirt and dushegreya
> are all different brocades. Then drawings done in
> 1916 show it as a short
> jacket that laps right over left from Moscow, and in
> Olonetsk it looks like
> a peplum attached to a sarafan of the same material!
> (I am looking through
> a book called _Folk Costumes of the People of Russia
> in Graphic Arts of the
> 18th-20th Centuries_ in case anyone is interested).
> Could it have been just
> a very short sarafan in some regions worn over a
> sorochka and skirt? And a
> sarafan with a peplum folded over, similar to the
> Celtic peplos, in another
> region? With the way it is gathered across the back,
> it seems to me to be
> related to the sarafan somehow, since modern
> sarafans are made with gathers
> across the back. It's such an odd little garment.
> Could it be related to
> the Romanian and Hungarian vest? Didn't those come
> from the Tatars? Perhaps
> it was just a short-lived clothing fad from after
> our period, which is why
> Sofya found little mention of it and it's not worth
> fretting over. I wish
> we had women who lived in Russia on this list. Then
> we could get them to
> research and ask questions of the people who work in
> the museums there.
> Please keep translating stuff for us Sofya! You are
> our only hope to get
> these perplexing costuming questions answered!
> (Thanks for all you have
> done so far, BTW!! Your work is invaluable).
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