The particular rectangular gusset in this case is where you'd measure rise.
For a parallel illustration, check out the *uwabakama *at
These are the topmost set of *hakama *accompanying court garb, and they
are actually constructed of two entirely separate leg-tubes, with a
completely "loose" strip of fabric hanging between (from mid-front to
mid-back of the waist) to conceal the gap between the leg-tubes. This
sounds extreme (and exposed!) but whenever these are worn the *ho *(outer
robe) would hang down to the knees or past, plenty far enough to provide
coverage. The example from *Honcho-Gunkiko *is analogous: the strip is far
more attached, but the hakama would still have been worn under armor.
Ii-dono and I were talking about it last night and it's our impression that
wherever this "crotch-strip" (following the rise) shows up, it is to
strengthen/reinforce/cover an actual gap in the crotch (presumably for
convenience of access to, ahem, sanitary facilities). Hakama to be worn
outermost or visible tend to have the square gusset instead (if they have a
gusset at all), and show no or little clear gap between the legs if someone
is standing straight-legged.
(We've constructed hakama which end up resembling Lady Roxanne's, although
the method used to join the leg-tubes is different. I would also caution
that contrary to the wearing instructions, experience has shown it is far
better to tie the front ties before the back ties-- again, for easy access
if one has to use the restroom.)
On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 1:08 PM, tupan4 <tupan4@...> wrote:
> Abe-dono, where does the rectangular gusset go? Is it like where you'd
> measure rise or is it 90 degrees opposite?
> Can someone post a link to a picture?
> Partly I'm curious because I know Lady Roxanne's hakama pattern includes a
> strip that goes ankle to ankle along the inseam. I don't know whether
> that's based on historical research or on making a nice looking pair of
> pants. (It does work out nicely.)
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Ellen Badgley <flyingrat42@...> wrote:
> > Yoinking *Jidai isshou no nuikata* off the shelf... *yoink*
> > All of the Heian-and-later pleated *hakama *and *sashinuki *have a very
> > clear square gusset a la Hiraizumi-dono's (Tony's) pattern. However, the
> > earlier Nara-period reproductions (from Shoso-in examples) tend to be
> > different, and at least one of those (an "undergarment") has the 3-4 inch
> > "strip" at the crotch, similar to the one photographed in Honcho-Gunkiko.
> > (In Nuikata, the same kanji is used for this crotch-piece as for the
> > gusset in the other cases.)
> > So, in summary, they're both period approaches, it appears.
> > - Abe Akirakeiko
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