On Aug 2, 2004, at 5:29 PM, makiwara_no_yetsuko wrote:
> --- In email@example.com, Donald Luby <djl@t...> wrote:
>> You could also go with habotai
>> ("china silk") or noil ("raw silk"), both of which I'd recommend in
>> the 10 mm - 14 mm range.
> Habotai is smooth. Noil has little slubs and pills in it and
> sometimes has an odor until it's washed a few times. While modern
> sensibilities sometimes like slubs and imperfections, our ancestors
> would've considered such imperfections a fault.
I've actually known people who prefer the feel of noil to habotai,
especially against their skin; I've also found some very 'fine' (as
opposed to coarse) noil, with little to no slubbing in it.
> That having been
> said, however, you can often find good deals on "raw silk" in a range
> of solid colors. (Those of you going to Pennsic should look for a
> merchant called Thorny Rose, she usually sells raw silk yardage in
> addition to European clothing.)
Don't know Thorny Rose, but lots of fabric merchants have decent deals
on noil - the going good rate seems to be $5/yd, you may get better
depending on amount you purchase, whether you buy the whole bolt, and
how late in the war it is.
>> You can also get away with cotton or linen solids, though I'd
>> buying the linen online, since most local fabric stores are way
>> over-priced in that regard for some reason.
> www.fabrics-store.com has a good selection of 100% linen. I use them
> for a lot of my European stuff.
Yeah, they're a good site. I get my linen from other sources usually
(I have a friend who buys linen via her connections in the garment
district in NYC, or I go to JoMar in Philly), but they have good prices
> www.fabric.com does all kinds of
> fabric (sometimes some really great deals on solid colored dupioni -
> a slubby silk which is much nicer than noil even so).
If you look hard, you can also find less-slubby dupioni; I got some on
eBay a while back, but that merchant has since ceased selling fabric
(now they seem to only do jewelry).
>> If you want something a bit fancier-looking, it once again comes down
>> to price. Most fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicos
> I have to disagree with Koredono on this one: Most modern cotton
> prints just do not look like period Japanese textiles, generally
> because the prints are smaller.
Well, yeah, I have to agree on that; what I should have said was "most
fabric stores have a decent range of cotton calicos, a small group of
which are passably acceptable as Japanese-ish to people who aren't very
familiar with period Japanese textiles". I certainly used them for
years (until I learned better), and got no grief over them from any of
the more authentically-minded Japanese folks.
> Go to www.iz2.or.jp/english and
> browse both the costume examples and the textile gallery. It'll give
> you an idea of what patterned textiles from period should look like,
> and seeing the garments on the mannequins will give you an idea of
> the scale of the designs. The good news is that if you are so
> inclined, you can use fabric paint to simulate the look of these
> larger period designs. (I did this on an uchigi and I have pics at
> http://www.geocities.com/wodeford/i_am_the_display.htm )
Certainly. Though I would not recommend such a high goal for someone's
earlier garb, just because having enough garb to wear, even if it's
sub-optimal, is better than having none because you're working on the
>> I learned the hard way, over the years: if the fabric is right, the
>> clothes won't look right, and now with the advent of the internet,
>> they're readily available to us as they were not before.
> That I will agree with!
> Best of luck in your clothing construction efforts!