I never like to laugh at someone's misfortunes but your story was as
entertaining as it was informative. Thank you for sharing that with
me. The way you described the "smoldering hot rag" stuck to you
finger had me in tears.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "edlance" <edlance@m...> wrote:
> Um, hehehe, no. I use my own method that I was told was
> way to do it after I had a slight accident with it. I persevered
> still use my method, but with certain precautions.
> The method as described to me to be the "correct" way involved
> a second rag soaked in boiled linseed oil that is wiped over the
> after it is applied. I tried this, didn't like it. It caused
> bubbles in the CA and took a while for it to dry.
> Anyway, "my" method utilizes only medium viscosity CA and a cotton
> rag (currently, I have a small supply of old baby blankets which
> well). CA reacts fairly quickly with cellulose and this causes it
> get really hot really fast. It'll get hot enough that it causes a
> small amount of smoke, so be extra careful doing it this way.
> The accident I had was a failure on my part to fold the rag over
> enough layers to keep the CA from wicking through and getting onto
> finger at about the same moment it reached nuclear fission heat
> levels ;-) So there I was, a smoldering hot rag hard glued to my
> finger and not a damn thing I could do about it. I had to
> rip it off my finger, along with several layers of skin. Let's
> say I make darn sure I have plenty of rag now when I apply the CA!
> So anywho, the idea is that the heat generated cures the CA on the
> pen almost instantly once it starts to react. It takes a little
> practice to get a smooth coat, but the basic procedure is as
> Set your lathe for around 1000-1200 RPM.
> Turn the lathe off.
> Hold your cotton rag (with many layers folded to protect fingers)
> under the pen.
> Squirt enough CA onto the pen so it begins to drip down the sides,
> cover it well from end to end.
> Turn on the lathe and apply moderate pressue with the rag and work
> carefully back and forth along the pen.
> It takes about 1-2 seconds before the reaction to begin, but once
> does, be extra careful to maintain even pressure and make sure
> side-to-side strokes are as straight as possible. The CA hardens
> the rag and if your technique is right, it creates a nice, smooth,
> albeit rock hard, form around the pen.
> If you are not careful, you will gouge the CA as it cures in the
> (noticeable by rough, white looking streaks) and you will have a
> tough time sanding them all the way out.
> Once the first coat is done, I sand with the "super fine" 3m
> sponge until all white areas are smooth. I then stop the lathe
> sand laterally to remove the scratches.
> Apply a second coat just as before.
> Finish it off however you want. I use micro-mesh and start at the
> 3200 grit and work all the way to the 12,000 grit. Sand laterally
> with each grit before going to the next.
> It shines like glass.
> Now that I've done it a few times and have my "procedure" down, I
> do the entire thing, start to finish in about 5 minutes.
> The box elder pen took me awhile because of the blow out and the
> madrone Americana pen was my first pen of this type, so I had to
> the directions and all.
> The ebony european pen I posted last night took me about 20
> to do, from raw uncut pen blank and hardware kit to finished pen,
> including the full CA finish.
> --- In email@example.com, "forkball" <forkball@y...>
> > Wow, These look nice. Which CA finish technique do you use? I
> > know everyone in here that uses the CA finish does it their own
> > way. Some use water thin, others use the gap filler, and so on.
> > Do you use the technique listed in the FAQ?