Yes, this boat was designed to be a shorter version of Summer Breeze from simplicityboats.com. I looked at the mini-sharpie but wanted to design my own version. I'll have to look at that design again but I think it used a leeboard. Good idea on the nylon shower curtain for a sail. I'll have to check into that. I also considered adding a daggerboard but didn't want it between my legs. Maybe it wouldn't be a big deal but my seat is only 2" off the bottom (frame + seat thickness). Are the runners off the side of the center runner just to keep the bottom from getting scratched as well as strengthen the bottom or do they help the boat track straight? Mine tracks pretty good but I wouldn't mind it to track a little better.
Thanks for the hints. They will help if I ever build another one. This one is cheap plywood and NO EPOXY or Fiberglass so I expect it to wear out in a couple seasons or so. Hope I'm wrong and it last a lot longer though.
Oh yea, I was the one who posted the video link of the minuet on the woodboat forum and it was somewhat of an inspiration to this design also.
Brian in PA
I didn't make my keel (center runner) wide enough to put a daggerboard through it. It is a strip cut off a 2x4 (1-1/2" x 3/4")
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
> kinda resembles the mini-sharpie from simplicityboats site, done a couple of em, 1 for rowing one for sailing (hasnt been out yet). watched the video someone posted of the minuet is kinda similar ideas in mind for solo sailing, having controls right in front of you.. and for that I have an idea for an easily reefable balanced lug sail.. takes sewing in a 1.5" rope-laddered slot for the sail to wind down around-over the boom.. which has a peg on it (why the rope-laddered slot!) for a rope ring to act as a stop. a couple loops acting as "bearings" for it to stay same height, and the top sprit can raise or lower for amount of sail showing. simple as pointing to irons, set top sprit height and wind the sail down around the boom, set the loop over the post, cleat the sprit rope tight. its not much a reach forward for that stuff. (still gotta sew that up outta dollar store nylon shower curtains is cheep available)
> the daggerboard box sits right between legs, you sit on the floor and theres a convenient crossbrace for a toehold so ya can lean left right if needed. did a little looking online regarding daggerboard position and sail's center sweet spot, if I fall out it SHOULD just point itself into the wind and about stop, but more likely it'd justÂ blow over.. ouch! little more work for a daggerboard box and they do take up a little room right between your legs, but its right there to raise or lower.
> yep and yep.. 2-5/8 gunwales rabbeted the 5/8 for 2" taller sides, then the kids pool noodles clinched on for another inch worth and floatation too. balanced lug might be the better idea for smaller, the mast forward of the sail lessening some of the torque.. one main sheetÂ line through the top of the rudder, similar to how Beede did with the summer breeze but I used nylon webbing mesh.. tiller arm slips over it, then the rope runs through the mesh to a cleat on my left. a pin slips in over the tiller arm so it cant pop off.
> small (important?) detail.. I put a wide runner down the center bottom that the daggerboard goes through, then a runner (3/4 x 1-1/8) left-right about 9" away. inside theres crossboards that connect through to those 3 runners, kinda lattices the floor panel to be strong. crossboards arent where I sit, floor is smooth there to shift-slide left-right (toeholds being the forward daggerboard crossbrace).