The material the gasket is made out may have chemicals that are unsafe. You can try cork but it needs to be 100 percent cork. Paste made from wheat germ andMessage 1 of 10 , Nov 19, 2011View Source
The material the gasket is made out may have chemicals that are unsafe. You can try cork but it needs to be 100 percent cork. Paste made from wheat germ and flour and water is another option. Flour tortillas would work to.
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From: Scott Lacey <scott.c.lacey@...>;
To: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>;
Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Milk Can Kettle isn't airtight.
Sent: Thu, Nov 17, 2011 6:03:44 PM
I bought some automotive gasket material at napa auto and made a gasket.. Seemed to work until late in my run when the temp and pressure started building more.
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On Nov 17, 2011, at 9:18 AM, "geoff burrows" <jeffrey.burrows@...> wrote:
Right try this:- Take the lid of your milk churn off. Get yourself some ordinary chalk like blue or something that you’ll see easily on the can. Now on the complete contact surface area of the lid chalk it up, don’t smudge it.(buff it with emery cloth if the chalk wont mark) Put it back on to the milk churn to where you would normally have it. Now carefully pull or tap it off (still being careful not to smudge it) now look at the lid contact surface and you will clearly see where the tight spots are circle around them and go oversize by about quarter of an inch with a black permanent marker pen. Use a grinder and buff these high spots down, now don’t go crazy be sensibly about it don't grind a hole, you can always re-chalk it up again. When it’s a nice slide in fit you’re ready to make the seal. Go to a file on the forum I added a while back below.
Open this link
http://tinyurl.com/7e4oqab and it will explain how to make an airtight seal. But here are a couple of amendments to the pdf file. In your case
1. just weight it down and
2. Use a marker pen (any alcohol will clean that off in seconds flat) so make a line of centre punch marks along the pen marks on the lid and on the milk churn (go mad and get fancy and do arrow heads pointing at each other (and you will have custom made seal micro-millimetre perfect) clean it up and you're ready to go
When you set up to distil line them up and the weight of the column will keep you lid to churn seal airtight
Hi Scott, Cork at the end of the day is the thick bark of a tree, a porous fibrous and organic woody material. So when a woody material is immersed in a veryMessage 1 of 10 , Nov 19, 2011View SourceHi Scott,Cork at the end of the day is the thick bark of a tree, a porous fibrous and organic woody material.So when a woody material is immersed in a very hot steamy alcohol environment (like in your boiler) for a prolonged time period it becomes very porous and pliable unless it's kept under very tight pressure (how do you think they make those nice round topped walking canes)? in a wood steamer.Ideally for a cork seal to work in that situation it needs to be used once and tightened down with nuts and bolts (like a cork seal on a car water pump to the cylinder head situation).Why do you think they have a regular turnover of cork gasket sets (hanging on pegs behind a counter for quick and frequent access) at car accessory stores. They start to frig up when used more than once. So what do they know that doesn't seem to be common public knowledge? they leak when used more than once.There has been great discussion on this forum and our sister forum the "Distillers" forum about chemicals of different types and grades in builders silicon sealant. Go to the message section on the forum web page and type in "silicon sealant" on the message bar and read every thing.(there's a lot there)I used fish aquarium silicon sealant in 2005 to seal my churn lid and electric elements and it's still going strong not even a hint of a leak. If it's good enough for fishy it's good enough for meGeoff