I can t get away from thinking about easily found material. Seems to me that the most common material is rusty pipe in the 4 to 5 range (fence posts). ThisMessage 1 of 49 , Aug 26View SourceI can't get away from thinking about easily found material. Seems to me that the most common material is rusty pipe in the 4 to 5" range (fence posts). This could easily replace the 1 1/2" pipe shown in the plans. Pieces of angle iron welded at the ends could be the feet. That piece of channel iron between the ways and the big pipe makes fitting and alignment easy (shown in the plans).We have talked about "temporary" lathes for years but most had only short beds, This one could have a bed any length.I have never been a big fan of pillow block lathe spindles because of looseness in cheaper bearings BUT the MM spindle bearing adjuster takes the play out of these also. It will shorten bearing life somewhat but this should not be much of a problem.Personally, I think that a scaled up version of the goofy little lathe is a winner.Pat
From: pokerbacken <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:26 AM
Subject: [multimachine] Re: New machine badly needed/an answer maybe
Pat, would it not be "simpler" to use a section of thick walled sq tubong or U beam for the lathe bed?
if the headstock is thick walled tubing and it has guiding dowels then add pillowblocks...
for "ways" think in all we only need 15mm or so guide down sides and top of bed milled flat rest can be left raw, bottom of headstock needs to contact these milled areas aswell to line up so shims are needed.
the milled areas only need go down to bare metall and are likely made in few min on a modern mill.
cariage can be as simple as used for mm, just using angle iron to hold shims, might need some added "hold down" with say rubber roller on bottom to secure against unskilled labour wrecking more than tools.
short piece of "way" and "cariage" could be made as milling attachment.
tailstock ? uhm, here i would do some lateral hinking, we would need a slit in the tailstock and several threaded holes in the bed for moving it and threaded rod in a threaded "pillow block" for quill,
this would allow regular pillowblocks to be used for boring with just a pulley and a bar (threaded block replaced with regular bearing block), in all fairly quick work in a modern shop, several lathes made in matter of hour with little cost.
or is it my pneumonia induced deleriom talking?
... Just to note, non-straight pipe, 2 lally columns and a rope loop with a stick can apply enough force to bend the pipe straight, a hydraulic jack and a UMessage 49 of 49 , Sep 1View SourceOn 08/31/2013 11:08 PM, louis richardson wrote:
i am sure any oil field pipe that is bent wll not be sent back over seas from where it came.
Just to note, non-straight pipe, 2 lally columns and a rope loop with a stick can apply enough force to bend the pipe straight, a hydraulic jack and a "U" frame will work better.
Start with a pipe and use a surface plate (monument stones work well), to find a high spot. Apply pressure to the high spot to move it slightly beyond the final target position. This is one of those "feel" things, after a while you will know just how much beyond the target you need to go. It will vary depending on the pipe and phase of the moon, but you should be able to get below 0.001" run out pretty quickly.
If you don't believe me, try it with some scrap, it works surprisingly well.
Now, on monument stones, when granite is blanked for gravestones and government buildings, even a small flaw can make it unsaleable. The remaining options are: *Total loss, *use it as raw scrap, *find a buyer. If after significant work to the monument stone (gravestone, for example), the stone is to be discarded, someone who covers the cost of raw materials and labor may be very welcome. Sometimes, a six-pack of beer on a hot day will get you a broken headstone missing a corner.
"A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice."