On 05/20/2013 12:09 PM, Kyle Owen wrote:
> Yeah, the Sharpie marks made me sad too. Depending on what the switches are
> made of, I may can use a light solvent, but I think a slight polishing would
> actually do a better job.
Yes, I'd err on the side of mechanical polishing rather than chemical.
That's very old plastic.
> Also, the top case doesn't seem to latch on. I see
> two plastic squares screwed into the top case, but I don't see how they'd
> match up to anything on the power supply side to latch the case down. Do you
> have some photos of that side?
Those are little plastic snap-latches. I don't think I've ever seen an 8/e
on which they worked right. I'd not worry too much about them.
> Speaking of switches, the SW handle is completely broken, and 0, 1 and 2 of
> the address/data switches also are touchy. 0 feels as though it's busted and
> can be moved horizontally, and makes bad noises when switching up and down.
Well you can usually get away without SW, but you'll need 0/1/2. Let's try
to ascertain why they feel funny.
> Are replacement switches as hard to find as I'd think they'd be? I'd probably
> need just one yellow and a couple of orange ones, if 0 and 1 are broken. Was
> the common failure point on these simply the handle itself, or the innards
> holding it to the machine?
The switches are fairly standard slide switches. I've never had to replace
one, but I'd be surprised if that were tough.
The handles have little pegs that stick out on each side, and they snap
into little metal brackets that are attached to the individual switches.
Those little pegs break off.
> I can probably get a variac and bring it up nice and slow, but I know that it
> was certainly operational within the last 10 years. It came from Auburn
> University surplus in the 90s and was previously installed in the
> microfabrication lab as an embedded computer driving a step and repeat camera.
Cool! I'm guessing your electrolytic capacitors are probably ok. I'd
still bring it up disconnected from the backplane first to check the PS
voltages, though. Let me know if you need the pinouts.
> I have a photo of the tops of all of the boards in that album, but I can take
> all the cards out and examine them individually.
Oh? I didn't see that, sorry...imgur's user interface gives me heartburn.
I will go back and check it out.
> Will do! Are the keys all the same, or did each switch have its own matching
They're all the same, labeled "XX2247". I keep on on my go-everywhere
keyring, for luck. :)
> This has certainly been a "dream machine" for a long time. The front panels
> were the best, and finally getting to play with one will be a real treat.
> Thanks for the tips!
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA