--- In email@example.com
, amendment2@... wrote:
> Dave Womble,
> I noticed in a tarp you made you had sewn two ties out in the field
> side in addition to the tie outs around the edges. They looked like
> more interior room by pulling the inside center of the tarp out
> the hammock. Did you not include them in the winter tarp?
> Dave Fox
Those were in an earlier version of a winter tarp I made, this one
That looks good doesn't it? At one time a couple of years ago Ed
Speer and I talked about offering that version for sale but we were
not quite satisfied with it and never did offer that version for sale.
Problem is it doesn't work quite as well in winter conditions as it
looks like it would.
I learned a lot from that version of winter tarp. I learned I wanted
something simpler and I learned that what I wanted in a winter hammock
tarp was a little different than that. I learned I wanted something
that used fewer stakes and still gave me a taut pitch in the various
configurations I needed for winter use. I learned that you want to
block the wind from directly hitting you but still have ventilation
when the wind subsides without having to get up and re-stake anything.
I learned I didn't want to deal with hook and loop fasteners for
fastening a door when I wanted to enter or exit the tarp as they are
difficult to get hold of and align properly from inside the tarptent.
I learned I wanted steep sides to shed snow.
I went back to the proverbial drawing board and on my third version
for a simplified version came up with what Speer Hammocks now offers.
There are no hook and loop fasteners, I use an overlapping door
approach that pitches taut and doesn't drag along the ground. It
provides for reasonable wind protection and adequate ventilation at
the same time. The side pullouts for increasing the interior volume
you mentioned are gone, those are missed in a closed off tarptent
pitch but they added too much complexity, messed with the geometry
with the overlapping door technique, and flattened out the top of the
tarp making snow loads more of a problem... I don't think the maximum
closed off tarptent pitch will be used except in really bad conditions
and then you will have to hunker down and make due with a more
confined space than you might prefer. The catenary ridgeline is also
gone, I increased the depth of the catenary curves on the edges and
utilized four catenary darts along the hammock where the "door flaps"
hinge. Those do some interesting things for the tarp... they keep it
very taut over a variety of pitch options and do it exceptionally well
while allowing you to have steep sides when using the tarptent pitch
to help with snow buildup.
Dave, when I talked to Ed the other day he said he had already sent
you the WinterTarp. I wanted him to send you some shock cord to use
with the side tieouts but I was too late getting to him. The shock
cords are something Ed is planning on offering( for a small price of
course <grin>) once we get it documented how to attach them . I use
1/8" shock cord because that is what I have picked up locally, I think
Ed uses 3/32" shock cord. Either will work fine, one has a little
more tension and the other weighs a little less. I have used shock
cords on the side tieouts for my hammock tarps for years and really
like them. Basically I use 12" pieces of shockcord and loop it
through the side tieouts after I have tied the guyline on. That gives
me a doubled over piece of shockcord that is six inches long. For the
amount of stretch I get with the shockcord I use, I attach that with a
clove hitch in the guyline about 10 to 12 inches down, leaving 1/2 to
1 inch tails on the ends of the shockcord. These shockcords make life
a lot easier with the WinterTarp as it keeps tension on it when the
silnylon stretches, keeping it reasonably taut and it gives you a
convenient spot to hook your stakes when pitching it in the tarptent
configuration. Do you have some shockcord and understand what I am
trying to describe?
aka Youngblood 2000
Designer of the Speer Segmented Pad Extender, SnugFit Underquilt, and