It sounds like you might have a frozen bearing. They were usually
bronze with lithium grease or oil for lubrication.
A lot of console manufacturers used Garrard turntables and they were
considered the best. It's a lot easier to find parts for them and the
changer types are available for little or no money.
If you deceide you want to put in a "superior engine", post it here.
I have a friend who goes to all the estate sales and if he buys a
console for th espeqakers and amps, he just throws them away. I am
sure the DAC members can help you out.
Whenever I work on vintage audio equipment I always wear a white shop
coat, like a doctors, to get me in the proper frame of mind. It helps
reduce the impulse reach for a hammer.
--- In email@example.com
, "judy ross" <judyegr@...>
> Hey, Dennis. I am devoting this day to your suggestions.
> Remembering what wire goes where should be a breeze. That's the
> technique I used when removing wires from plugs and distribitor
> caps. Ok. Since my current problem is removing the platter from
> chassis, I have put oil (all I have is 3M at the moment) into the
> center. The spindle and mat are removed. I have tape to cover a
> prying instrument. If I can't get an instrument inside the plinth
> with enough room left for prying, then I will remove the chassis
> the plinth. (Ahhh, a new language.) Plinth...such a neat word,
> never used it before. Be back later.
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Dennis" <chimeraone@>
> > Judy,
> > I have taken more turntables out of consoles than I care to
> > To make communication easier let's use some common nomencalture.
> > Let's call the wood panel the turntabe assembly is bolted on the
> > plinth. The round disk that rotates is called a platter. The
> > disk on top of the platter is called a mat. The metal base the
> > platter sits on is called the chassis.
> > If you are having problems removing the chassis from the plinth,
> > might be easier to tilt console so the front rests on a carpaet.
> > makes it easier to get at the hardware holding the chassis to the
> > plinth. The first thing you do is dsiconnect the signal and power
> > wires that connect to the turntable chassis. In some cases there
> > connectors in some cases they need to be unsoldered. Draw a
> > showing what color wire goes where so you can re-connect them
> > properly. Some cahssis are spring loaded, some are fixes. But
> > will be three or four threaded studs with hex nuts holding it in.
> > always spray Kroil or Liquid Wrench on them adn wait a day to
> > sure I don't strip them.
> > If you are trying to remove the platter from the chassis, that
> > more of a challenge. Most console turntables have automatic
> > with a 45 adapter. Teh platters were diecast metal usually
> > and the changer mechanism is plated steel. Galvanic corrosion
> > can "weld" the platter to the mechanism. Kroil mith help and you
> > to try it, but if it doesn't you need to use a propane torch to
> > the platter. Remember these tables are sually driven by a rubber
> > idler wheel or in rare cases a rubber belt. Keep the heat away
> > them. Remove the rubber mat and heat the top of the platter at
> > center. You can use a putty knife to gently try to pry the
> > off. Wind masking tape arounf the putty knoe blade to prevent
> > scratches.
> > Like cars, vintage audio equipment has service manuals too. They
> > usually provide blow-up drawings of the assemblies, schematics
> > voltages. Do a google search for SAMS manuals and one the sirte
> > search for your specific brand and model, there is a very good
> > there is a SAMS for it.
> > I am under the assumption that the colsole plays music adn the
> > problem is just with teh turntable. In addition to soundign
> > when soemthing does go wrong, it is usally a bad tube which is
> > replaced. But eventaully, when it ahppens, someone wil have to
> > measure the voltages in the amplifiers to find out whats wrong.
> > SAMS will have the information, but you need some basic tools and
> > knowledge to fix it. The best Basic Electronics Technician
> > are the old Military manuals from the 50s. Once again easily
> > a Google search. Since you are already a mechanic, it's a short
> > to becoming a technician.
> > Best Regards, Dennis
> > --- In email@example.com, "judy ross" <judyegr@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > > From: judy ross <judyegr@>
> > > >>
> > > > > Diamond, and other Greats.)
> > > >
> > > > . Only thing, the turntable is stuck, frozen,
> > > > jammed. I am teaching myself how to repair it by taking one
> > off
> > > > at a time to see how it is made. >
> > >
> > > I still haven't been able to get this table off. It can't be
> > welded on
> > > or they wouldn't have put a lockpin on it. Will it hurt it if
> > put
> > > some oil in the center to see if it will help remove it? I
> > see
> > > under the table from the top, and I can't see what is directly
> > under it
> > > from the underside, either. Jeesh! If it were a car, I would
> > > wheel puller and put some UMPHH on it! I'm trying to resist
> > ploy
> > > for one with more finesse. Is there a trick to pulling this
> > off?
> > > WHEW!
> > > Judy
> > >