Thanks for the response.
I've ordered Susan Van Leuven's book and I should be getting it any day. The grain orientation you describe makes sense. I think I can avoid the planer step if do a good job setting up my table saw to rip the strips.
The biggest problem I'll have is getting the 18' long planks home. I have until Saturday to figure it out.
Do you cove and groove your stock?
On Jan 26, 2010, Charles & Dana Scott <charles.k.scott@...> wrote:
You can use almost any thickness of cedar stock to begin ripping your
strips, but having planks that are the correct length is a LOT of help. It
means you do not have to scarf them together to make the length you need to
cover the entire length of the hull. So if your canoe is to be 16 feet, see
if you can find planks that are 17 feet. If not, you will have to scarf
them together at some point during the covering process.
If you have 2x4 or 2x6 stock, you need to rip it down to ¾ before you begin
ripping the strips. Susan Van Leuven suggests that you look at the plank
and cut off sub planks such that they are ¾ thick, then rip them at ¼ or
slightly thicker, if you have a plane you can then use to get them down to
the pre-requisite ¼ thickness. She further suggests that you rip off your
sub planks such that when you rip your strips, the grain is vertical, like
She said that if you rip the strips such that the rings are oriented the
other way, like this:
When the strips have their grain oriented like the second example, it
increases the possibility of splitting when the strip is bent sharply.
Ive been ripping strips myself and had a 16ft 2x6 cedar plank for material.
I checked the grain and determined how to mill it and
set it up wrong.
So I went ahead and milled all the sub planks at 1, and went ahead and
ripped all the strips from the sub planks. It worked out ok, each sub plank
rendered six strips, if Im remembering correctly.
So for those of you who are wondering, yes, Im making my strips 1 inch
tall, rather than ¾. The canoe design Im building doesnt have any
dramatic curves in it so I think Ill be fine with the 1 height strips.
[mailto:email@example.com] On Behalf Of drippy70
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 2:57 PM
Subject: [Cedar Strip Canoes] Re: Newbie with lots of questions
More newbie questions...
I've located a local lumber company that stocks randem lengths of kiln dried
red western cedar. Over the phone it sounds like they have the stock I need
to make strips. Any advice on how to go about selecting "two by" stock for
milling in my shop? Should I not be milling my own stock?
I don't have a router table but I have a Unisaw Delta table saw. Does
anybody cove and groove strips on a table saw?
Another question, is redwood or alder wood suitable for strip building?
Gil Gilpatrick's canoe strip building book arrived yesterday and I stayed up
half the night reading it. Good stuff learned.
I'm hoping to start stripping building on Superbowl Sunday.
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