Dear Henry, I have seen your post regarding the problems with the toe rail and the subsequent messages from other group members which seem very helpful. I haveMessage 1 of 8 , Oct 31, 2008View Source
I have seen your post regarding the problems with the toe rail and the subsequent messages from other group members which seem very helpful.
I have a design drawing of the hull/deck join for the Nicholson 35 which might be helpful. I will see if it is possible to scan it and post it on the pictures section of this group.
We had some problems with a section of toe rail coming loose on our 35 last year. Having taken the teak capping rail off it was clear that the join between the hull and deck mouldings was not fair. There was filler, and epoxy in there but, in places, you could see right through. As such, the only thing keeping the sea out was the caulking (I suspect Sikaflex or similar). After 20 years this was degraded to the point where it had ceased to do its job.
The solution was to grind out a little of the filler and fill and fair with epoxy and then re-seat the rail on new sikaflex. Be very careful near the bow section as there is quite a pronounced ‘cut in’ to the hull shape and Campers used the same length of screw along the whole rail. I would recommend that you use screws a few millimeters shorter for the bow section of rail to eliminate the chance of the screw heads protruding through the hull.
As I said, we only replaced the bow section because it was loose but we expect to have to do the whole thing all the way round in the next year or so. If your teak is in good condition and you are careful then you can get away with lifting it and putting it back on. Your damaged section will need a new bit scarphed in but it will be a lot cheaper than doing the complete job.
All the best
Colin and Jo
From: email@example.com [mailto: firstname.lastname@example.org ] On Behalf Of henry_is_walker
Sent: 30 October 2008 15:00
Subject: [campernicholson] Replacing the teak toe rail of a CN39
The boat we have just purchased has quite a number of plugs missing on
the toe rail, which is also damaged.
Has anyone replaced their toe rail? If so what is the joint like
underneath and how is it fixed down.
I assume it is screwed down but into what, are there captive bolts
Is it a problem other than aesthetics that the plugs are missing or
does it mean water will be getting into the deck joint?
Any help would be much appreciated
... I replaced the rails on CUBERA 4 years ago, and I pretty much agree with what everyone has said. The only thing i d take issue with is not routing to finalMessage 1 of 8 , Nov 3, 2008View Source--- In email@example.com, "henry_is_walker"
>Henry,I replaced the rails on CUBERA 4 years ago, and I pretty much agree
with what everyone has said. The only thing i'd take issue with is
not routing to final shape before installing. It is a bear to bend
and removing as much meat as possable makes it easier. that said
leave the scarf joint square so you can keep it clamped while
bending.I never touched the rail with clamps. Use a block on the
inner face and a 2 foot piece of wood vertically on outer face to
clamp against. I angled the screws at the bow.
If you have to clean the fill from the bulwark I used a skill saw and
a router set shallow and many passes. I used unsupported (no glass)
and epoxy, doing it again i'd use vynalester resin with glass mat.
On the scarf joints I went 6 to 1 try 12to 1 the joint will be much
CUBERA cn35-49 > Hi,
> The boat we have just purchased has quite a number of plugs missing
> the toe rail, which is also damaged.
> Has anyone replaced their toe rail? If so what is the joint like
> underneath and how is it fixed down.
> I assume it is screwed down but into what, are there captive bolts
> glassed in?
> Is it a problem other than aesthetics that the plugs are missing or
> does it mean water will be getting into the deck joint?
> Any help would be much appreciated