dynel is for when you want to duplicate the look of canvas, but want a more peramanent solution. I found it tougher to fill the weave. --- InMessage 1 of 17 , Sep 16View Source
dynel is for when you want to duplicate the look of canvas, but want a more peramanent solution. I found it tougher to fill the weave.
--- In email@example.com, <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:On 39’x7’5x1’x 225hp SACPAS-3 all outside surfaces were glassed with 10-oz cloth set in epoxy, plus coats of oil-based paint.
Local commercial repair yard doing steel draggers, tugs, wooden schooners etc. suggest using hard-edged sand-blasting ‘shot’ to sprinkle salt-shaker-fashion into the wet-paint, with another coat helping to keep the ‘traction’ in place. Avoid that non-slip around cleats and on-deck moving lines as both skin and fibers will be abraded...
Ditto on Jed’s glass-cloth comment versus Dynel.Susanne Altenburger, PB&FGood question.After all this work, I’d go conservative.
Glass-cloth in epoxy, plus paint (with non-slip in wet paint plus another coat), all for physical wear and protection from the effects of sun/heat, whether afloat or on wheels.
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
I am thinking about what to coat the cockpit plywood with in my Chebacco 25 build. (that indicates that I am getting closer to finished - the cockpit is almost finished and the cabin structure is being built ).From what I have read and experienced with other boats, I should be glassing the foredeck to protect from checking and damage . I might use Dynel as an alternative as it did pretty well on the bottom of my Cartopper.But if the foredeck needs protecting then surely the cockpit will need similar.What advice/experience is there for how much coating is enough. Epoxy+paint? Epoxy+glass+paint?, what paint?. The boat will basically be a trailer sailer so should have a cover on it most of the time - but "should" doesn't mean that it won't blow off.Andrew