Frank, I ve never wanted a regular lug rig with that heavy flail looking for someone to hit. The late model balanced lugs are different. With both boomsMessage 1 of 15 , Feb 28View Source
I’ve never wanted a regular lug rig with that heavy flail looking for someone to hit. The late model balanced lugs are different. With both booms captured to the mast and light high strength booms they aren’t so dangerous. Some of those run 6:1 purchases even on sails under 100 square feet.
Good points all! I d have to agree on the lug choice. Just talked to a fellow sailor. She ran a Chebaco up and down the New England coast with an _undersized_Message 1 of 15 , Mar 2View SourceGood points all! I'd have to agree on the lug choice. Just talked to a fellow sailor. She ran a Chebaco up and down the New England coast with an undersized lug and had great luck with it She rigged it w/Mat Laden?? Home made Boom roller....said it worked great. She had a very undersized electric outboard so she really did SAIL THE COAST
Her insightful comment was "It seems like it's more common to have to much wind than not enough" Smaller sails are always easier to handle
Conditions /needs are alway local New England Coast...good wind?...slippery Bolger hull(cause it wasn't his rig) Bolger believed in a generous rig..that's one of the reasons his boats are so fast!
And then maybe the most valuable component was her ability/gumption to take the summer to mess around in a not so small boat Great Fun
On 02/28/2013 07:51 AM, John Trussell wrote:
There is no free lunch.
Bermuda mains require a longer mast. With a conventional boom, they generally require a boom vang. A sprit boom is a marvelous solution, but if you reef a sail with a sprit boom, the boom moves forward where it will interfere with a jib. Lowering any sail with a spar at its head can be a challenge, particularly in a breeze. In the case of lug sails, this can be made easier if the boat has lazy jacks, but the lazy jacks are a complication, requiring a little bit of hardware and quite a lot of line. I prefer a lug on small boats because it is efficient and fairly well behaved off the wind. Sprit sails use short spars which are easily stored and they are difficult to control off the wind. Pulling a sprit out of the sail on a breezy day can be a challenge, but a brailing line will take the stress out of this process. But nothing is perfect. Everything has its advantages and disadvantages. Each of us place different values on the advantages and disadvantages. The only valid reason to build your own boat (other than whatever pleasure you get from the process) is to have a boat that suits/pleases you. Build whichever rig you like.
Anyone contemplating changing rigs would do well to read Jim Michalak’s essays on figuring centers of sail area, PCB’s 100 Small Boat Rigs, and David Nichol’s The Working Guide to Traditional Small-Boat Sails.
From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org ] On Behalf Of frank raisin
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Oldshoe / Japanese beach cruiser
just a thought - but i find i have gone off lugs and balanced lugs unless they are easily controlled. when it all starts getting a bit unsettling, i don't want a loose log up there in the sky banging around wanting to brain me - and another thing with most 'hoist a spar' rigs that ups my anxiety stakes is that as one eases the sheet when hard pressed they tend , instead of relaxing progressively, they can power up even more! the popular sprit rig seems worst in this regard - like trying to go to windward with a parachute spinnaker, it powers up as you ease the sheet - then dumps the power all at once and flogs - most disconcerting!
i was brought up on fully battened Bermudan mains - most civilized - not only did the stress reduce progressively and proportionally as the sheet was eased but the full battens reduced the flogging (but i have experienced a gust so heavy it caused the battened main to flog - and so heavily it pulled me over - .....)
i think that Phil was sensible to prefer leg o' mutton because they tend to self-tend and progressively feather off at the top. they are long enough in the foot to have enough power in a simple sail , and the mast , though long, is heavily tapered (theoretically it can taper to nothing - or just enough to tie off to). in the usual application of minimal sophistication this rig is all round forgiving (IMVHO!) - and the sprit boom further removes the risks of being clubbed
frank (didn't mean to rant)
ps just to complete my thesis i would suggest that the Fully Battened Bermudan is the natural fulfillment of the (misguidedly popular IMO) Junk rig. - just don't use a bolt rope in a track - use slides or lacing so it dowses.
> To: email@example.com
> From: alias1719@...
> Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:32:57 +0000
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Oldshoe / Japanese beach cruiser
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org , "gravelyrider" <denandel01@...> wrote:
> > when spring gets to upstate ny i'll let you know how my Oldshoe with lug rig works. the mast is a lot easier to transport than the 19 footer originally planned for.
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1239860332/pic/624499304/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
> Just wanted to say that the balanced lug rig looks good on the Old Shoe - and is likely just what that boat needs to make it more user friendly. Looking forward to hearing how it works out!
> Good luck - Dave Gentry
> Bolger rules!!!
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I ve used a battened shaped polytarp balanced lug on my Michalak Philsboat for many seasons now. I use a peak halyard to control the yard when lowering theMessage 1 of 15 , Mar 2View SourceI've used a battened shaped polytarp balanced lug on my Michalak Philsboat for many seasons now. I use a peak halyard to control the yard when lowering the sail and lazyjacks to hold the sail bundle. The light battens (there's just two of them) do double duty as reefing points and are attached to the mast with fixed parrels.
I've found the rig to be very well behaved on all points of sail and with that large wall of sail let out 90 degrees downwind the boat flys. The battens and fixed parrels ensure that the sail doesn't billow
when it's being lowered and also keep the strain on the polytarp fabric down so that it doesn't stretch.
A lot of polytarp sails are simply rags put up on a stick, but with a bit of thought your homebuilt sail can be effective. Over the years, I've taken a number of experienced sailors out. They come away scratching their heads at the utility, all round performance and power of a rig that they invariably pre-judge as being a toy.
Here's a YouTube video of her in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db2Jo9QAI3Y
> frank (didn't mean to rant)
> ps just to complete my thesis i would suggest that the Fully Battened Bermudan is the natural fulfillment of the (misguidedly popular IMO) Junk rig. - just don't use a bolt rope in a track - use slides or lacing so it dowses.