I have faired many a kayak and we most always fair first then glass, you end up with a greater chance of a uniform surface coating and the chance of cutting through the glass by sanding is greatly minimized and you just focas on filling the glass weave. If you have a goodly sized commpressor try using an inline board sander like one found in an autobody shop, I love them, fast and kinder on your shoulders.
--- On Sun, 6/1/08, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
From: Harry James <welshman@...>
Subject: Re: [bolger] hull fairing sequence
Received: Sunday, June 1, 2008, 10:03 PM
My father a Master Shipwright, used a low angle light to profile the
imperfections, I find that works as well or better than taking outside.
You will find high quality sheet rocker/tapers do the same thing.
Douglas Pollard wrote:
> Here is a suggestion based on my own experience. It is really hard to
> see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
> equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
> you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
> unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
> all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
> take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
> recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
> work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
> absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
> wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
> Bruce Erney wrote:
>> I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
>> sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
>> with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
>> This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
>> Bruce in NJ
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