Wow. That was so long and detailed that I printed it out. I will
definitely look up the book you cited. I deeply appreciate that you
(and others) were so willing to spend time explaining things to me,
when you don't even know me. I sound like a goof, but I'm touched,
and just wanted to say thank you.
--- In email@example.com
, "Judy Decker" <JDecker@w...>
> Bill Merrill tried to send this to the list but couldn't get the
> through so I am posting for him.
> Bill is a professor - The closest I could find to what might be
> is: http://www.cis.ctc.edu/
> (Is that it, Bill?). Bill's work sounds interesting to me. I asked
> send some images. I know this message is a duplication to one list
as I did
> see Woody post it. I just don't remember which list it was.
> free to email Professor Merrill (bmerrill@c...)
> Artist canvas has different sizing amounts in it compared to
> clothing fabrics. If you buy cotton duck at a fabric store, it'll
> Stretch the canvas, but don't wash it first. If you want to for
> pour paint (acrylic) on the canvas like Morris Louis or Paul
> some mordant ( like alum ) in some warm water and use a stiff
> use the mordant mixture and scrub the surface of the canvas. This
> break the surface tension of the gelatin sizing applied to the
canvas at the
> factory. Renaissance painters used rabbit skin glue to size the
> make it taught, seal the linen and then paint the canvas surface
> before painting. Gessoing the canvas keeps the oil paint from
> canvas...linseed oil etc. rots raw canvas. If you size a canvas
> unflavored Knox gelatin, dissolve a package of gelatin in cold
water and let
> it bloom. After a few minutes stir the mix and heat it to near
boiling - do
> not let it burn. Apply the mix to the canvas surface with a big
> the canvas dry and then gesso the surface of the canvas. I buy
> cotton duck canvas for $5 or six dollars a yard and the canvas is
> I don't size my canvas's with gelatin, I stretch the canvas and
> coats of gesso on the canvas. I do paintings that are comprised
> parts that are dimensionalized and the parts are bolted together.
> have another frame network over all the parts and the entire piece
> stretched over it. None of the framing network shows and the
> to float out from the wall. When stretching narrow, raised
surface parts I
> stretch the canvas on the bias so there is the possibility to
> the canvas. I dampen the areas where the canvas needs to be
pulled around a
> corner. I may apply Elmer's waterproof glue under the canvas that
> sometimes staple the canvas to hold it in place until it dries,
> remove the staples so they don't interfere when putting different
> I build frames from brick molding and use clear 1 x 2 lumber for
> If I am stretching a regular canvas, I don't staple the edges, I
> corners and pull the canvas around the exposed edge and staple it
> staples are exposed to the viewer. My canvas's are without frames
> paint the edges.
> A good book for you is entitled Painting; Visual and Technical
> by Nathan Goldstein. This covers all sorts of painting....good
> I have taught painting for 35 years at the college level and am so
> with the fact that we still learn and grow throughout our lives.
> Keep painting the best ones are still in you!
> Bill Merrill bmerrill@c...
> Judy Decker - Ohio
> Incredible Art Department
> (P.S. for Bill - today was a good day - smile - this is only post
> to Getty)
> (P.P.S. for everyone...Anytime your messages don't go through.
> worked for many is to unsubscribe - then resubscribe. Somehow that
> that "glitch").