I am by any measure, not well versed on all the various permutations of militia and light infantry coat patterns. Making a double breasted coat that works both folded back and folded over requires some planning and fitting. My advice would be to stay with your Past Pattern (british) foot soldier's coatee and take the time to do "working muslin" out of some inexpensive cloth (muslin or old bedsheets) and have your soldier try it on over his small cloths repeatedly. Make a note of where it is pulling. adjust the muslin (cutting or adding cloth to allow for a natural drape of the garment over the figure. Use strong hook and eyes. (Napoleon's troops used hook & eyes every 2 inches of so to close their high waisted wool uniforms)
Saundra Altman at Past Patterns is about to come out with a tail coat pattern with faux facings (false turn-backs and tails) based a number of extant militia and early war military coats. Not sure about the timing of the release but it promises to examine many variations on the uniformed tailcoat and will be graded for various body types.
Good luck and have patience!
1st regiment volunteers
--- In WarOf1812@yahoogroups.com, "mikedeajansen" <mjansen5@...> wrote:
> Hello all! I am sewing an officer's short-tail coatee, 1814 impression for light infantry militia. I plan to alter the Past Pattern's foot soldier's coat pattern so that it is double-breasted. If this will not work, please let me know! I need to know how wide the facings are, where the lace is placed, and if the embroidered lines that extend beyond the buttonholes on the facings are there for all ranks, or if some coats are left quite plain. I do NOT plan to have the looping around the buttonholes. \