a.. ... From: Glenn Palmer To: Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 6:47 AM Subject: [TriumphTrophy] TrophyMessage 1 of 17 , Jul 30, 2002View Sourcea..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Palmer" <palmerga@...>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 6:47 AM
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Trophy 1200 Front
> Anyone changed front suspension components, springs,
> or oil weight for more damping? Suggestions for best
> I just purchased a new 2001 Trophy 1200 2-months ago
> and now have 2500 miles, including a 1600 mile trip
> from Salt Lake to California (Laguna Seca)--no
> problems and love the machine. However, the bike does
> seem to "toss around" a bit through tight turns or
> along those stretches of interstate with expansion
> joints. Front suspension seems too soft. I checked for
> leaks and found none, and motion is smooth.
> Regarding Glenn's problem.
This is an old chestnut but is still worth sending out to any Triumph owners
with an unstable front wheel.
> This is to let all Trophy owners (and possibly other owners) know about
likely cause of bad handling from the front end.
The handling takes the form of the front wheel skipping side to side over
about 6 inches when you are travelling about 40mph plus, this occurs with
all standard fitments to the bike.
First I checked that there was no movement of the forks in the steering
I tried out the following to fix the problem.
Balance the front wheel.
Increase pre-load on the bearings.
I had the rear shock replaced, this was definitely underdamping but it did
not fix the problem.
I pushed down the forks to clear the top yoke, rotated the top yoke out of
the lock and lifted it away.
Slacken off the two half nuts and then turned down the adjustment for 17
flats (just over two full turns)
until I could feel that I had pulled up the hollow tube to make the bottom
yoke press against the lower tapered bearing.
After re-assembling the front end I did a road test and Walla!, I had a
new bike to ride. The front wheel stayed on the road and the bike stopped
gyrating sideways at the front, also the front tyre stayed planted when I
was turning hard and fast through a corner.
The problem could arise from using "torque" to set the front steering
tube adjustment inside the bearings. The fit of the tube to the bearings is
a semi interference fit.
If the actual position of the tube, i.e. the amount sticking out of the top
bearing were measured then there would be no problem.
I personally like to "feel" that I have reached the end of adjustment when
doing things like this.
All owners can get there dealers to do this (but they probably wont suspect
it!) if they are having these
symptoms or they can do it themselves in about two hours.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
... Brian, you have two choices. First is to put a jack under the engine, take off the handlebars (you don t have to disconnect any lines), remove the forkMessage 1 of 17 , Aug 1, 2002View Source--- In TriumphTrophy@y..., BRIAN EASTON <jb.easton@v...> wrote:
> At 20:01 31/07/02 +0000, you wrote:Brian, you have two choices. First is to put a jack under the engine,
> The reason is I don't know how - do I remove fork legs and seals and
> unscrew the bottom bolt or.the top or both or....... just turn the bike
> upside down and shake it out:-)) ??
take off the handlebars (you don't have to disconnect any lines),
remove the fork top bolt, suck the stuff out with a handpump, shopvac,
or whatever, replace with the proper amount. Button it up.
2nd is to block up the engine again, raise the bike until the front
wheel is slightly off the ground,remove the front wheel, loosen the
pinch bolts on each fork, remove the fork, remove the top fork bolts,
dump the gunge, put some some spray cleaner in there, fill to proper
Since it has bee so long I would opt for #2.
Hi Lowell, I added 3/8 preload inside the tubes. I found 1/2 galvanized machine washers are just a hair smaller than the stock washer that goes between theMessage 1 of 17 , Aug 1, 2002View SourceHi Lowell,
I added 3/8" preload inside the tubes. I found 1/2" galvanized machine
washers are just a hair smaller than the stock washer that goes between the
spring and the shim tube. It is also a little under 1/8" thick. After
draining the fork sludge and replacing the springs, I added a bottle of the
fork oil (470? ml) to each tube, placed 4 washers in each tube, added the
stock washer, and then the stock metal tube shim and cap. It was a bit of a
challenge to get the thread started on the cap/tube, but with patience it
did align and take the thread. I did not change the pull through as I felt
it was OK from a hand/wrist pressure perspective (no sense adding more
IMHO). Shimming this way was cheap; about $0.50 in washers.
'99 Triumph Trophy 1200
'90 Suzuki Intruder 750
From: lgl12356 [mailto:lamb@...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 4:36 PM
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Trophy 1200 Front
--- In TriumphTrophy@y..., "richgard" <ttrophy@o...> wrote:
> I just replaced the fork oil at 25k. I don't think it had ever been
> done before then either. The oil was like sludge that poured out of
> the tubes. I replaced it with some good synthetic stuff from Honda;
> 10w. I also added 3/8 of an inch to the shim length.
Do you mean 3/8 of added pre-load inside the tube,
or 3/8 of added "pull through" in the triple clamps?