... I think if we can do even better if put our heads (sorry, Peggie) together. Suppose you dropped your keel that Sabre had the foresight to make removableMessage 1 of 86 , Dec 2 8:00 AMView Source
On 12/2/2010 6:15 AM, oldsailor36@... wrote:
I see what you mean Pete. That's a whole boatload of batteries isn't? This gives me an idea. How about placing the batteries in a boat of its own, painted green of course, and trailing it behind while connected through an umblical power cord? You could probably get a day or two of solid power out of it while cruising. Then, when the power was about to run out, you could nip into a harbor that had already had charged battery boats waiting, change it out while having your holding tank pumped out and be on your way. I can see a whole industry forming up just to build these things and keep them charged. Surely there must a few billions still floating around to fund all this. Maybe we could interest BP in this who certainly need any kind of eco boost when it comes to water things. If not, I understand that there are still hundreds of billions of stimulus funds floating around waiting for the next tsunami of earmarks.
I think I better write this idea up and submit it to the patent office before Al Gore claims credit for this too.
I think if we can do even better if put our heads (sorry, Peggie) together.
Suppose you dropped your keel that Sabre had the foresight to make removable and recast it as a 4 ton lead acid battery. To keep it charged, you could use a combination of two renewal energy sources. The first is to make the entire deck a solar panel made of of individual photovoltaic cells fashioned by skilled Chinese technicians to mimic the pattern of a teak deck (special order cells could be ordered in brown to match either teak or Cetol, depending). While the solar cells wouldn't generate enough power to keep the keel charged during a long passage, lay days, work days, and days under sail would make up most of the difference.
The second renewal source could be used for brief periods of high current need. It would be a small turbine powered by the steam of righteous indignation at the thought that Obama strayed from his socialist agenda to rescue capitalism from itself. I think there's enough there to generate a good head (sorry, Peggie) of steam from a sailor of any political persuasion. To make it a renewal resource, it may be necessary engrave the sentiment on a brass plaque mount it on a small official portrait of Obama.
You've got the lead. Now put it to use.
-- Jim Starkey Founder, NimbusDB, Inc. 978 526-1376
stick in the Hurths are in middle (checked it out the first time I did mine). john ... From: Bruce Heyman Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat]Message 86 of 86 , Dec 6 6:45 AMView Sourcestick in the Hurths are in middle (checked it out the first time I did mine).john
--- On Mon, 12/6/10, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman@...> wrote:
From: Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman@...>
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Oil filter for W27?
Date: Monday, December 6, 2010, 9:21 AM
Do you suppose maybe the dip sticks were designed for a level engine and ours are mounted on an angle?
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
From: sailor11767 <HarryK@...>
Sent: Mon, Dec 6, 2010 13:03:23 GMT+00:00
Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Oil filter for W27?Be VERY careful with this! With my engine, a Volvo MDIIC, it would be very dangerous. I haven't had my engine very long, and am part-way through my third oil change. "Part-way" because I'm doing some work in conjunction.
The MD11 is a 3-quart engine. In previous oil changes, I've pumped out the oil through the dipstick, and then added back in 3 quarts. Both prior changes I noticed that when I add 3 quarts, I'm over the full line, although I've not worried about it (bad, I know). Well, this year, I pumped out the oil through the dipstick, and it came a little over the 3 quart line on the oil jug I put it in. Yeah, I know, it's overfull. Now for the bad part.
This weekend, with the crankcase "empty" I slipped a pan, perhaps 5 x 7, and maybe 1.5" high, under the back drain plug, and wrestled the plug out (not an easy job!). The remaining oil drained out. And drained out. And drained out. My pan is still there under the engine because I have to go back down there with a pump to drain some off. The pan is full to 1/8" of overflowing! I'm interested in knowing how much oil that is, but I'm guessing nearly a quart.
The point here is that I thought I was doing an oil change -- but was really doing an "oil dilution." If any kind of flushing fluid was added, it would have stayed in the engine after the oil change. If you can't get ALL of the oil out, any flushing fluid will significantly affect the engine after the oil change.
The other point here is that the dipstick is a bad oil change plan. The project I'm doing is the addition of a low-point oil drain -- all future changes will be pumped out of the bottom of the sump.
'79 S34-I #063
Luce Creek, Annapolis
--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "smofishlaw" <stephen.ouellette@...> wrote:
> One other option is, after draining the oil, run a lighter weight of oil like mystery oil or kerosene, and use it to flush the drain hose. Make sure you let all of this run out before you fill the engine with regualr oil. A friend did this last week and had positive result.
> I have the same slow drain hose issue-I just let it drain into a flat oil change pan, and wait...