> The overgown is basically a long sleeveless jumper,
> completely lined. So, I sewed the lining to the
> around the neck and then around the armholes and
> when I realized I can't seem to remember which parts
> not to sew up and where to turn it. I don't want to
> leave the shoulder seams undone, I can never get
> to turn out exactly even.
> Lady Margaret
What the people in the area of the Manesse Codex
likely did, was to finish the garment and the lining,
pop them together, turn in the seam allowances from
the outside and whipstitch or overcast them together
from the right side. Not very efficient on a sewing
machine, but that wasn't their problem.
My method, which other people have also used.
Please note, this is unlikely to be how 'they' did it
in 'period', for any value of 'they' or 'period'. But
it works for modern sewing with a machine.
I prefer to leave part of the back seam, if there is
one, or the side seam open for turning.
What you have to do, is put the lining and the fashion
fabric together wrong sides together, as they will be
in the finished garment.
Turn pieces inside out where you need to sew them
together, and turn back right side out when sewn, so
you don't loose track.
Example: For a coat-like garment (Do press everything
like crazy, as you won't be able to get at it
Sew together fronts and backs at the shoulder seam for
lining & main fabric.
Sew on the sleeves ditto.
Sew the back seams, leaving an opening of at least six
inches in the center back lining unsewn. If this
opening is well-pressed to line up with the seam,
matching up the opening for later sewing is easier.
Sew the lining to the coat from neck to hem on either
Sew the main & lining sleeve ends together.
Put the coat on a large surface as if it is ready to
be worn. The sleeve/side seams and hems are undone.
Fold the sleeve ends right sides together so the
joining seams match.
Pin in both directions down to the hem, matching areas
of the coat and lining as you go.
You will end up with a sleeve loop and a seam like a
Sew it, clip, press, turn, and press again.
Turn by working your hand down the fashion fabric
sleeve section, grasping the sleeve end seam, and
pulling the lining inside. If the sleeve ends lining
side out, just turn the garment right side out, and
don't open up where you'd been sewing again.
Repeat for opposite sleeve.
Turn the hem through the opening in the lining seam.
Pin it well, since it wants to wrinkle because of the
large expanse of fabric coming through a relatively
small hole. Sew it, and turn in back through the
Hand sew the lining seam opening.
If in doubt, pin or baste the tentative seam and turn
right side out; you'll quickly see if you've gone
I have done this for Chinese style coats (after a
c.1890 style coat in Tilke) for dolls down to 10
inches, with proportionately smaller openings left in
Ann in CT
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