This is going to show my age!
In the 1950s the conservative German-origin Dominican sisters still
wore pin-on sleeves which like the scapulars were laundered more
often than the full lightweight wool habit. I think this was a
reflection of frugal working class tradition -- not even buttoned or
tied sleeves. It was startling, though, when Sister Thomasina
demonstrated a fire extinguisher in science class, held it wrong,
sprayed her sleeve with foam & had to unpin it to rinse out in the
--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com
, Catrijn vanden Westhende
> I've got links handy, having recently discussed this on another
> There are a few paintings by Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden
> showing this style (well, two that I can think of)
> They are the right panel from the Braque Tryptich
> and the Deposition (far right figure)
> Both depict Mary Magdalene. There is some debate over whether the
> paintings actually show a raglan cut sleeve (I believe they do).
> are detail pics from the second painting:
> Other paintings from the same era show similar cut and style, but
> either have the more standard set-in sleeves or don't show one way
> the other. For the rest of cut and construction: 4 panel is good,
> well supported by art and known construction techniques. Wool is
> good, gabardine varies but is probably fine. If I were making a
> custom gown, I'd probably do linen or (better yet) wool lined with
> linen, to be strong enough to make it self-supporting. But that
> requires individual fitting (and a lot of it), so not going to
> in a commercial product.
> As for accessories, I think the pin-on sleeves were probably worn
> of the time in order to make the dress acceptable in public, except
> when actively working (i.e., the women in the field from Tres
> Heures). An open front hood is definitely appropriate, and I feel
> wrapped veils/turbans are as well (although I have much less strong
> visual evidence).
> So in my opinion, its a fine recreation of a 15th c. working class
> gown, particularly from the low countries and surrounding areas.
> comparison, Historic Enterprises sells a similar one (but with set-
> sleeves rather than raglan):
> For middle class and up, this type of gown probably wouldn't have
> an outer layer, except (for example) at home, or otherwise not in
> public. This would have been the middle layer, covered by a more
> voluminous gown - a houppelande, or later a Burgundian v-neck gown.
> I'm not entirely impartial - this style is one of my personal
> interests. I remember discussing research with E (the
> question) after I had made mine, and I respect her work. But it
> looks like some of the better premade stuff I've ever seen for this
> Catrijn vanden Westhende