Cartridge pleats should be tight enough that the thread gathering them
is hidden in the folds. You have to adjust your stitch length to suit
the thickness of the fabric and the amount of fullness you want to
gater in to the finished waist size. It's easy to get the stitches
too big, then the pleats look skimpy I've done enough to be able to
gauge them by eye, but it might be a good idea to do a foot or so as a
sample to judge the effect. If you have a fairly thin fabric, you
might also consider adding a strip of something thicker such as
flannelette just at the top of the skirt to beef up the folds. 6"
wide or so should do it. I always work my gathering stitches from the
inside of the skirt so that the long stitch is on the inside and only
the smallest pick of thread shows on the outside. That way, there is
less chance of the stitches showing between the pleats.
--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Gina" <sewndesign@y...> wrote:
> I am constructing an elizabethan gown and I plan on CP'ing my
> Overskirt which will attatch to by bodice. I tried box pleats and it
> is currently attatched to the bodice, but it doesn't give it enough
> oomph, and it is only about 2 1/4 yards of fabric (My waist is 28").
> Looks good until I put it over my bumroll and hoopskirt...the split
> opens to reveal to much of the underskirt.
> I am hoping adding more material and doing the cartridge pleating
> help alleviate this problem. My question is about how much fabric
> should I use for my overskirt? Will 3.5-4 yards be enough on my tiny
> waist? And last question...Would it be horrible not to line it? I am
> trying to cut down on the thickness (VERY hot in TX) Thanks! GINA
> You can check out my website to see pictures of the process (I am in
> the processing of updating all the pics as of tonight (7/2).