My Lady, I m going to GWW and will be willing to fit you --as you talk me through it-- if you are willing to fit me while my best friend watches and learnsMessage 1 of 46 , Sep 24View SourceMy Lady,I'm going to GWW and will be willing to fit you --as you talk me through it-- if you are willing to fit me while my best friend watches and learns when you do me. Best friend is darling hubby and he helps out on projects. All you have to do is bring pins and fabric, we'll be in the Angels encampment. I'll bring my copy of the "Medieval Tailors Assistant" and a few other books. I've not been to any event for over a year, thanks to being sick. Are you interest in Japanese culture too?Sorry to swamp you, I'm just getting worked for war.Leonarda
From: Joan Silvertoppe
I only wish I could find someone to fit me into the garment, although I've a friend I may train to do so, just so I can have one.
(Snipped by mod. Trim your replies.)
The undershirt should not have fitted sleeves but sleeves that stick out at right angles from the body, typically with a square gusset. Use a thin linenMessage 46 of 46 , Nov 11View Source
The undershirt should not have fitted sleeves but sleeves that stick out at right angles from the body, typically with a square gusset. Use a thin linen fabric, and it will kind of plump out the overgarment without making it look bumpy.
Here's a basic pattern based on body measurements that I find works well:
There is some bunching under the arm but that gives you more mobility. Modern jackets have the sleeves set in so that they look right when they hang down. In medieval and Renaissance overgarments, the sleeves are set at an angle so that you can lift your arms with ease and without the garment riding up too much. I'm not sure how the cotehardie you made is cut, but if you used a modern jacket or coat pattern for the cotehardie, it may simply be incompatible with the shirt. Also make sure the overgarment fabric is not too thin; line it if necessary.
Check out "Some clothing of the Middle Ages" (http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html) for patterns taken from extant garments.
Use cheap fabric (old bedsheet, unbleached cotton etc.) for mockups before you cut into anything expensive.
I have several neck opening templates so I don't have to draft the neckline from scratch for every garment. Once you have something with a nice neckline, take a sheet of paper, fold it in the middle, place it inside the garment's neck opening (with the folded edge at the top) and trace the neckline with a pencil. You will have to edit it a bit to make it symmetrical. Make the final template from thin cardboard for better durability.
Hope that helps,
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <dandysourcandy@...> wrote:Hi, this is my first post. I've tried trawling through both the internet and this site without any initial luck at finding instructions for making a men's undershirt to go under a cotehardie/fitted surcoat.
I tried making my man a T Tunic as an undershirt, as suggested by my local SCA group, but it bunches horribly from the armpit to the top of the shoulder and I tried enlarging the shoulder end of the sleeves with a gore, but it continued to bunch.
I've used assorted online instructions to make myself a supportive underdress with fitted sleeves (and proper sleeve cap), and there's no bunching etc. So I was hoping to find something online to help me draft a 14th Century men's undershirt with a more tailored sleeve cap so I can make a period appropriate undershirt that doesn't give the cotehardie a bumpy look.
Also - what do you do when a garment turns out so wrong that it cannot be rectified? I cannot salvage this shirt and it used at least 2 yards of linen. It's a pricey mistake.
Thanks for any help!