The Umayyad empire in the fifteenth century really doesn't exist like
the early Umayyad Empire did. Many older Western scholars used the term
"Umayyad" to describe what modern scholars now call "al-Andalus"-- the
region of Islamic controlled Iberian peninsula, or "Islamic Spain".
For that much later date, concurrent with Isabella of Castile, you would
want to check out the work of Mistress Violante, I think:
For the earlier Middle Ages, you might want to check out the work of
Yedida Stillman. Her theory is:
"Over the next few hundred years, there emerged throughout the length
and breadth of the Dar al-Islam a generally recognizable Islamic style
of dress. There were considerable temporal and regional variations to be
sure (as for example, in the Maghreb...) but these were within the
parameters of a pan-Islamic mode that remained remarkably constant
throughout the Middle Ages. In addition to the emergence of what might
be called Islamic fashion, there developed an Islamic ideology and
sociology of dress. Together, this distinctive fashion, it's ideology,
and its sociology make up a system of meaning which Roland Barthes has
dubbed a "vestimentary system." This does not include Persian clothing.
It give you a good starting point. In the 12th century, half of an
Egyptian woman's wardrobe was head wear. Wraps were worn in layers when
out of the house, and tunics covered the whole body.
Hope that helps,
On 2/24/2013 5:06 PM, Kathy Duffy wrote:
And to think all this research started by trying to figure out what
silk Arabian garments, Isabella of Castile wore.