Looking at the middle figure in this image, http://tinyurl.com/5uads3f
seeing the light outer layer as the sleeveless over gown, the dark sleeves
and the inset in the 'v-neck' as part of the undergown. There is a
light-colored underlayer which I'm thinking might be a skirt over the
undergown? Does that seem right?
De: The first layer is a shift but you can have a gathered chemise. you
should make your sleeves straight and long (to finger tip is a good length),
Next layer can be a kirtle, (which is usually sleeveless) that has the
bodice and the skirt of different colors or you can have a kirtle that is
of one color and a plackett (a piece of material that goes over the breast
area of the bodice).
Sleeves can be tied on, a small section sew to the arms eye, half the sleeve
sewn to the arms eye, or sleeve fully sewn in.
This is Florentine but i am using it as an example of sleeve to bodice
Then you have the over gown which can have a bodice and skirt seam or it is
full length of the body with no waist seam and fullness tied in (belted). It
is usually lined.