Are you talking about Standard, Continuous, or Butted Cartridge
pleats? I've only done the butted pleat for Elizabethan styles.
The easiest way to determine the amount of fabric you need in the
skirt is to draw your waistband (or neckband) on a piece of paper. You
can then try out your fabric to determine the thickness of the pleat
and how closely spaced you want the pleats to be. It will definitely
depend on the thickness of the fabric you are using.
As the butted pleat is tacked at the top and the bottom of the
waistband I don't see why you would leave your gathering thread in.
There are some great examples of different pleating techniques in
Colette Wolff's "The Art of Manipulating Fabric."
Of course if you are also using the pointed peplum you will need to
adjust your fabric of the skirt for the point at center front. A great
> so after reading about Cartridge
> Pleating on the Elizabethan costuming website
(both links), the Recreating 16th and 17th C. Costuming site, and at
Extremer Costuming, you would think that I have all the info to get
this. well, I am missing something, and hopefully it isn't fabric.I
have tried it at 1/2 and 1/4 inch pleats trying to get it to gather
tight enough that the gathering thread doesn't show (since I am
suppose to keep them there and the best strong thread that I have is
black) but not so tight that I can't get it on. I have thought about
adding another panel, but I have it all hemmed, so I really don't want
to do that. If I don't get any good ideas, I will probably go back to
doing Box pleats that I know I can do.info on fabric: light weight,
light blue wool. I have the top hem folding in twice to protect the
raw edge. Measurement of skirt=98.5; Measurement of my waist=41.5. if
there is some formula that does really work, please let me know.
Constance WyattKelsy Warren