The 1953 date is the Canadian Patent date for Fred Bear's working recurve
limb. It has no relation to the date of manufacture of the bow and
appears on all Bear bows made from 1953 to 1972. From the Serial Number
you give (8P3383) I suspect you have a Bear Polar made in 1968. Don't
hold me to this as there are many variations in serial numbering and you
need to consult a collector specialist in this. Be assured that what you
have is a collectable bow though I can't guess on the value. Be careful
The AMO number indicates that the bow is 62" in length from string nock
to string nock. The 25# indicates that it should draw 25 pounds at 28
inches of draw.
If it hasn't been shot in a while make sure it is carefully conditioned
before drawing it. Wash the bow in a good wood cleaner which does NOT
contain any water. When it is thoroughly dry, oil it with a nondrying
oil such as walnut, lemon, or orange. Be sure to use a pure oil without
silicones or waxes added. When the bow refuses to absorb any more oil,
wipe it dry and coat it with a drying oil such as a good grade of boiled
linseed. Before drawing the bow warm it by rubbing it with a piece of
soft cloth such as flannel or an old T-shirt. Begin slowly drawing the
bow only a few inches and then letting it back down. Continue drawing it
an inch or two more each time until you reach the full draw of the bow.
While doing this listen for any unusual sounds and be aware of any
irregularities in the feel of the bow. You should find that you have a
smooth shooter and a prized bow. I envy you your find.
In service to the dream,
Carolus von Eulenhorst
On Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:15:10 -0000 wintermoonmaiden@...
> ...so I will type here the numbers on the side of my "cheesey
> LOOKING" recurve bow. The brand name is "Bear". I think it was made
> is 9153, as that is the date on the bottom.(I got it for $10 at a
> yard sale). It says:
> I confess I have no idea what these numbers mean. I haven't even
> gotten the opportunity to shoot it yet for several reasons: I have no
> arrows, no place to shoot, and the string is slightly frayed, which
> believe makes it unsafe.(plus I am currently an in-active SCAdian)
> There is an archery store a few towns over that I want to visit
> Now as to the quiver debate. Thank you Francois Leclerc for the
> websites. The one I was most interested in wouldn't load though -
> DIY back quiver. I saw someone once with a centered back quiver and
> that is what I really want to make. It was perfectly vertical, with
> straps that crisscrossed across the chest, and connected somehow. I
> have no idea if it is period, but it sure looked nice. I would love
> to find directions for that.
> Can anyone recommend a good archery book or magazine for traditional
> Thank you so much
> - Caelainn
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