I shoot a 50lb Hun I got at Lilies War two years ago, and it is the most fun, and frustrating, bow I ve owned. Since the riser is straight, without a shelf,Message 1 of 7 , Sep 21, 1999View SourceI shoot a 50lb Hun I got at Lilies War two years ago, and it is the most
fun, and frustrating, bow I've owned. Since the riser is straight,
without a shelf, Kaz helped me get a `seiper ' (leather cover to keep
fletching out of the top of my hand) made by a leather merchant. It
worked, but I found problems in shot to shot consistency as it moved on
the hand each time I nocked. I saw and talked to a gentle at this Lilies
who had added a ring of leather to his Mongol bow, and with this in mind,
I stopped at a leather booth and bought a thick piece of leather to make
a shelf with, and a long piece of suede to wrap it and hold it on. The
difference in shooting was immense, with a great tightening of groups.
However,the latest issue of PRIMITIVE ARCHER gives instructions on how to
wrap arrow fletches, so my next batch will have this, and maby the shelf
I shoot with the Mediterranean style, one over and two under, using a
tab-it works for me. A friend has promised a thumb ring when he has time
to make one, and I look forward to trying the style. I have found 60lb
spine shafts seem to give the best results, and the nocking point is
pretty far up the string-the owner of the local range helped me set it,
and was surprised at how high it had to be to shoot right. As to aiming,
the only thing I can say is practice with the bow, and find where it
shoots, then adapt to it-I find I aim low at 20, about half as low at 30,
and on the bull at 40, but work out your own way-mine works for me.I tilt
the bow to the right and lean my head to look over and down the shaft.
Good luck with a really nice bow! FELIX
Hi All, Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai.... How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should be?Message 1 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999View SourceHi All,
Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai....
How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should
Any insight would be appreciated.
Hello Again, Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai s Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric. Currently I have theMessage 1 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999View SourceHello Again,
Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai's
Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric.
Currently I have the arrow about 25mm lower than the bottom of the binding,
just above the handle. This is most comfortable for me, however some of the
photos of the bows at www.horsebows.com show some of the archers having an
arrow pass in the middle of the bow.
I ve been shooting a Kassai Mongol bows for about 2 years now and have discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw significantlyMessage 1 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999View SourceI've been shooting a Kassai "Mongol" bows for about 2 years now and have
discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw
significantly lighter than they are marked. The first was marked 42# at 28"
and drew 32# at 28" (the bow scale we used is very reliable and has been used
on longbows, recurves, and compounds with great acuracy). I complained to
the merchant I got it from and he replaced it (very politely and without a
fuss) with the heaviest one he had at the time which was marked 52#, it draws
44# at 28". I use arrows spined 40 - 45# and have had good luck with it. I
tried some 55# arrows and had a lot of problems.
Another thinig is that canting (tilting) the bow really helps!
I shoot european style (one over, two under) with the arrow at the very top
of the "handle" section of the bow. The leading ends of my fletches are
whipped (wrapped with thread) so I can shoot off my bare hand without picking
bits of feather out of my flesh. I have found that tipping my bow hand
downto the front with regards to the bow allows the fletching to pass over
the base of my thumb and not the base of my index finger. This seems to help
accuracy and prevent srcatches. I don't have a nock point on the string, I
just kind of put the arrow where it feels best. I thought this would hinder
my speed rounds but it actually seems to have helped.
Hope this helps.
Further thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string holes-it will increaseMessage 1 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999View SourceFurther thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the
range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string
holes-it will increase string life as the string wears/rubs in this area.
Watch the wrappings on the string at top and bottom- they come loose and
wear-wax helps here. The string wraps above and below the grip can come
undone, watch for this. A little super glue stopped the unravelling on
mine, at a cost to the looks.I read that the Turks placed a piece of
Mother of Pearl on the grip under the arrow path to prevent wear on the
wood- I used a piece of abalone shell. I fitted it to the grip, rounded
the edges off, then used rubber cement and monofilament to tie it in
place. I'll have to move it when I get a thumb ring, so permanence isn't
wanted.The only way I have found to string it is by stepping thru and
bending behind the leg-be careful! If you get hasty or careless, this bow
WILL crack you solidly up side the head! I put the long(eared) end down
and string up the lower end-the ears give some guidance and location for
the "lower" string . Tie a piece of string or leather around this end,
as it can come off and then all the work of bending and hooking up is
wasted. This is a fun bow to shoot, and I wish you well with it. I love
mine, and have found it worth every cent.