>I am certain for my tuning a slightly tip heavy bolt flies better than a
>tip heavy bolt.
Interesting, indeed. My setup is just the opposite, I use a 125 grain point
on a 20" shaft( measured before tapering for a point but after cutting the
nock off after fletching). My bow consistently groups point-heavy bolts
better, longer bolts better, and 4-inch lowboy feathers better. I've seen
that 4 of 6 fletch before, but never shot it.
> > I always did find bolts to be abnormally tip heavy and was wondering if
> > that affected their flight ...
> > Also, do you find that the extra fletches really help that much? Is it
> > worth putting th two extra on there?
I buy my competition bolts and make my roving range/stump
shooting/loaner/etc. bolts. I've shot 28's at 40 with the Greybar bolts,
and 25 with my own. That difference is why I still buy his bolts for
competition. Some things I've found true regardless of where you stand
about tip-heavy vs balanced and so forth, and here they are:
Point alignment is absolutely critical. If the point is not solidly
mounted concentric to the shaft the bolt will not fly well.
Fletches must mirror each other across the shaft. If they meet the
shaft at different angles th bolt will not fly true.
The bolt butt must be symmetric and square to the bolt. Until you want
to start playing with shallow parabolas, this means flat.
Make bolts that meet these criteria, and they should shoot for you. From
there, experiment and have fun. I make experimental bolts in lots of 3,
just to test new ideas, and have a blast doing so. I even tried using 23/64
shafting with grooves routed into the shaft instead of fletching, and they
flew pretty well out to 20 yards.