I also alcohol prep the tips and scrub out the insides with steel wool.
Then taper and cleans the tips, and apply the hot melt Ferr-L-Tite to the
arrow, making them up ahead of time, then to set the points on I but the
electric burner on 1 or so and set them in the coil and let them all heat.
Finally with hot mitt I press the tips onto the prepared tip which melts the
glue, holding it for a few seconds, check straightness then quench. I have
made aluminum arrows and now making wooden ones, and have never had a
problem with the tips coming free. I do take care not to leave them in a
car for long hot days, and I have never shot in the heat of the SW, but I do
not fear them coming loose in the heat, and if they are, I know I would be
seeking air conditioning any way.! ;}
> As my fellow archers will tell you, I like to experiment. Even when I
> find something that works, I keep playing around till I find something
> that doesn't. On arrow glues,
> I think I have used everything out there. I have found that many glues
> will work fine
> but the real key is tip preparation. When shipped, the tips have oil in
> them. I remove this by placing the tips in a container that can be
> sealed and won't break and pour in rubbing alcohol. I then shake them
> up and pour out the black mess. I have had to repeat this as much as 3
> time on occasion but once is usually enough.
> Right now I am useing the hot glue ferralite and having very good luck.
> At the Great Hunt, temperature were 100+ and the beeswas on the bow
> strings were getting tacky .Those useing ferralite (SP) seemed to have
> no problems
> Walk Tall
> Gentle Ben
> Get medieval at Mad Macsen's
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