My sentiments EXACTLY!! ... From: John Edgerton To: SCA-Archery@egroups.com Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 11:35 PM Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] fiberglass in theMessage 1 of 65 , May 2, 2000View SourceMy sentiments EXACTLY!!
----- Original Message -----
From: John Edgerton
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] fiberglass in the period division?
But, I still feel at this time in the development of period style archery
in the SCA, gear which "looks" period should still be allowed. If a solid
fiberglass bow looks like a period bow and not a modern solid fiberglass
bow it should be allowed.
As time passes and, hopefuly, more archers use period gear and there are
more SCA bowyers and bowyers that cater to the SCA, the minimum standards
can continue to rise. It will help if when period division scores are
shot, that information on the type of bow be included with the scores.
It is the law if supply and demand. And who out there would not like to own
the piece of art that a truly authentic bow is? I still think an "authentic"
only list is a good idea.... It gives someone a goal to "shoot"for.
Especially if you made it yourself!!! I know if I made my own bow ( I don't
know how long that takes depending on the different styles...a long time,
Eh?), I would feel a little put out shooting against someone who picked
theirs up at a Sports Authority or such, no matter how well the fiberglass
was camoflauged. There should definitely be recognition given for such
On another subject...Arrow rests.
I think there is mention in Ascham of the use of pieces of cork held in
place by the hand grip covering and being used as an arrow rest. I can not
find my copy to double check.
If anyone has the info on arrow rests, please let me know.... my left
knuckle has quite a callus now.
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Make your draw plate out of a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 7 x 2 inches. Lay out 2 rows of holes - 6 holes per row. Drill 2 holes (up and down from each other)Message 65 of 65 , May 9, 2000View SourceMake your draw plate out of a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 7 x 2 inches.
Lay out 2 rows of holes - 6 holes per row.
Drill 2 holes (up and down from each other) 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, 13/32
On the bottom row, use a 4 flute countersink to bevel the edge to paper thin. (the 4 flute countersink has a tendency to chatter in steel, that is why it is good. It will make the exit side of the hole slightly larger that the original and somewhat ragged).
Use the bevelled hole as a scraper (pull a little tension on the scraper, then pull it up and down the shaft, rotating the shaft as you work) and use the clean hole as a gauge.
Stop at the hole just before the one you want, finish with sandpaper and your spine tester and scale.
It works pretty fast after you get the hang of it, so the work goes quickly.
With this setup you can do almost all the shaft sizes and spines you want.
As soon as I get the time, I have some photos of the equipment, plus some other devices I have designed to help in the small shop, that I am going to put on a web page. I'll let the address be known when I get it done, but it looks like it will be next week or later.