Bernard, You will find that when calculating your tapers, overall thickness from point A to point B is not as critical as how even the taper actually is. The taper is designed to help reduce hand shock. You can make a simple table saw jig that has both of your desired thicknesses at each end and the halved measurement between the two in the middle glued to a single board and placed along your fence. You can then place your board accross the jig making sure to get your grain.... which is not so easy to do... to line up with your blade throughout the cut. Following the grain is important when you intend to dry your taper of any moisture it may carry. If you have a taper that is cut through the grain you will find that the taper will tend to curl or warp not only during the drying process but also during the process of cutting. Not only that but it also makes for a much stronger limb. After cutting the taper, remove the jig to cut the other side flat by placing the flat side
of the board against the fence on the table saw measuring the desired thickness from the low side of the taper from the blade curf on the outside of the blade.
I make my risers 16" from the tip of each fade out. Sticking with the longer limbs will make for a smoother, faster shooting bow in my opinion. Also smaller tips makes for a faster shooting bow. The less area the string has to actually touch the limb will also make for a quieter bow as well. My bows are very quiet as I do not even need silencers. I use them anyway just for looks.
Bernard Arnest <barnest@...
I've been hearing different opinions on riser length and
limb/overall bow length.. A couple places I have read that the
longer, the better; the more forgiving, the lesser the string angle,
the more comfortable, it shoots farther.... I am 5'7", I will be
holding the bow shoulder length, carrying that theory to the extreme I
should make as long a bow as I can hold without touching the ground,
or somewhere over 9 feet :-) Well, ok, not that far to the extreme...
but someone did say that they had a 76" bow, and it was the "smoothest
shooting bow that I ever had, though the weight took some getting used
to". Binghams plans say .222" thick for 40# for a 64" bow, add .015"
for a 66", add .03" for a 68". Carry that farther, a 76" bow is 12"
longer than 64, .015 for every 2", .015X6=.09", so I would make the
limb .312" thick (not counting the wedge, and before the tapering).
So should I go ahead and make my 76" target take-down recurve?
Someone else said that it has more to do with draw length, I don't
have an exceptional draw length, and that I should build a 66" recurve
maximum; that after that point the benefits from a still longer bow
drop off. Now I'm in the middle with one each of conflicting
arguments. What are your opinions? I've had only 2, and they went
against one another; I just need a larger pool of advice to make a
more educated pick from.
Then there's riser length. Bingham's plans call for 21" long for a
62-68" bow. The person who suggested a 66" bow for me also suggested
a longer riser for it, around 25". I called bingham to ask them their
advice. They said that their bows are mostly for hunting, but that
target archery recurves were known to have up to 30+" risers; but he
said that he wasn't a target archer and couldn't give any more advice.
Me, I'm a novice archer and an intermediate woodworker; I know that I
will be shooting at a target more than at animals, but I know nothing
otherwise about tournament archery. I'm at the mercy of others'
advice, and now I'm more confused. 21" riser, 25" riser, even 30"
riser? A 9" difference between those options, that's a huge gap. And
how long should the sight window be? Is a longer riser for weight
alone, or for a longer sight window? Changing the riser length
doesn't change how much the limbs are bent any so it can't be that....
Anyway, if you could give me your suggestions, advice, experience
based on years of archery; I'd appreciate it. I've already cut the
riser from Binghams 21" plans, but I think I like building bows from
what I've started on, so I'm sure to build a dozen others. The limbs
are long enough to make a 76" bow, but thickness sanded for a 40+# 66"
bow; but if a longer bow is what you suggest it won't hurt me to have
a lightweight 76" bow; and if it ends up 20 lbs, then I'll add a layer
of fiberglass, or I can always easily cut off the tips and shape it to
be shorter and add another set of tips and make it 66". This will be
my first bow, and I should experiment with modifying things even in
the middle. I need to learn how the wood thickness and the fiberglass
thickness and the limb width and length interact and play with it,
I'll have plenty of time for quick and efficient building later.
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