I think also 5 to 7.5 HP motors 230/460 9 or 12 lines are more compatible for building RVs.
And yes try as many times as its worth everry minute of effort ,
as ash once stated , looking at RV work is better than sex !
looking at a device that realy works ! and haves practical uses !
--- In RVreplication@ yahoogroups. com
, "mrbreau" <mrbreau@... > wrote:
> Hi Y'all? This post may be long so I apologize right now.
> Some time ago I fell into a few 1/4 horse, 3 phase (208) motors.
> I recently decided to try to RV them. Some of you may remember
> that I also tried to RV some real old 3 phase motors a year ago but
> couldn't get them to output anything worthwhile so I quit then.
> Anyway, I've had to rebuild my cap box. In the process I
> discovered that the cap box wasn't wired *exactly* right. I guess
> I've learned a few things since I first built it.
> So here is problem one. Without any caps engaged, the motor WILL
> turn at powerup but slowly. Flipping the 64uF cap gets it going
> right away to speed, 3450rpm. Amp draw is the rated 1.3 amps at
> startup and goes down to 0.4 amps when the 64uF switch is turned off.
> So, what is keeping the motor running with NO caps engaged?
> The second problem is that the voltage across the three legs is
> all different. For example at 52 VAC in; across T1 and T2 is 81 VAC,
> across T2 and T3 is 66VAC, and across T1 and T3 it is the input,
> 52 VAC. So why the different voltages when there aren't any caps in
> play?? Is this normal in 3 phase operation? (208 and 277?)
am I right in assuming that these motors are delta wound from the
> 208 spec?
> As usual, I only know enough to get myself in hot water. I hope
> someone can shed some light on this for me.