Hi Uri, Thanks for your replies – much appreciated! About “the very best”/”the next best” I used that as an over(?)-simplistic way of dealing withMessage 1 of 6 , Jun 15, 2012View Source
Thanks for your replies – much appreciated!
About “the very best”/”the next best” I used that as an over(?)-simplistic way of dealing with things like better lenses have no vignette, and that zoom lenses perhaps loose a little compared to fixed ones. But, also – Of course a pricier lens with better multi-coating would perform better.
Well, I might consider “publishing” any future panoramas I make on my web, but mainly I think prints will be made – I have an A3 Brother MFC-6490CW – that prints beautifully from my standard photos. I use a 42 km radio-link type of internet connection which only allows for circa 100 kbps upstream and 400-600 kbps downstream, so there will not be any high quality panoramas uploaded – it would take forever – and “disable” all other internet use meanwhile…
Yesterday I was in town, 135km/80+ miles away. The town is not big, and only 1 out of three photo shops had an a wide angle lens (other than my 18-105 Nikkor) – That was a Tokina 11-16mm f1:2.8. I see that it has got good reviews on the web, but in the bad lighting inside the shop it showed some kind of fuzziness/darkness in all corners. It was tested on a D7000. So, I hesitate. I will probably wait until I can go to a shop where they can get outside with me to an open place where I could estimate the performance for use with panoramas. If anybody will verify that it is a good option for panoramas – let me know.
Regarding taking the shoots. So far only done with the 40mm Nikkor Micro - Yes I did all that except for HDR. In my case I tested both fixed focus at infinity and two series steps down to approx. 100 m/330 feet and with fixed f16 and f22 (Nikon’s A setting), ISO 100 and 400 series - only “variable” was speed which was for ISO 100 between 1/8 and 1/50, and remote control with mirror lifted or live view.
I will include HDR in my next tests! I will use the 18-105 at 18mm just to minimize the number of photos and concentrate on HDR.
Yes, there are many software tools listed in the wiki, and I will try to learn and understand their usefulness.
In the coming days there will be real nice weather for photo, and I have one place which I from an artistic point of view know will make a fantastic panorama – given the photographer is up to it. So, I’ll be out and about. There will be days when it will be nicer to sit at home at the computers trying to get all things together and have a “show case”.
Again, Thanks for your replies!
--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Ingemar SkarpÃ¥s" <ingemar@...> wrote:
> Yes I understand that this objective is not the very best - not even the
> next best - but it is all that I have on hand, although I will get into
> town tomorrow and have at least a look at something a bit better.
What then are in your estimate, the "very best" or the "next best" lenses?
I'm sure that some of the wide-angle rectilinear lenses can do better than the venerable Nikon 10.5mm fish-eye or similar lenses, but it will take quite a few more than 3 or 4 exposures to shoot a full 360Â° panorama with such lenses, and the difference in quality is likely to get lost when processed for web display. That difference can indeed be obvious if you are willing to upload and serve panoramas as multi-res, at over 20Mb each, or if the panoramas are to be viewed on a local machine.
> In fact it works better than Elements 10 (which I also have installed in
> 64-bits) when it comes to stiching panoramas. I even tested some panorama
> attempts I did this winter, but hung in Elements 9/10 but worked flawless
> in Hugin.
Photoshop or Elements seem to be quite useless for doing full 360Â° panoramas. Hugin is good but the tool of choice seems to be PTGui Pro.
> The learning curve still seems steep, have a lot of trouble getting the
> exposures correct - the colors differ between the different photos even
> after stiching.
To avoid this, shoot with fixed exposure, white balance, ISO, and disable auto-focus; it's critical to use the same exposure for all shots. If the brightness range is too great, shoot HDR.
Best regards & good luck!