It's not rocket science, so whatever works is always the best way to do it.
I find that something only as thick as the plate steel too strong, and digs
into the base, and perhaps responds too directly to the tapping (with the
hammer end of the quoin key). The steel furniture abosorbs the tapping and
lets me make very subtle moves; the larger the piece of furniture (better
grip in my hand) the more control I get.
In addition, a broad piece of furniture pressed against the width of the
steel can move a plate up or down, left or right without putting the plate
off square (at least not too much).
The fact that the base pulls on the furniture is not a problem - it
> From: "Gerald Lange" <bieler@...>
> Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 05:25:43 -0000
> To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Tapping steel-backs
> A piece of steel furniture!!! I was using a wide non-magnetic
> screwdriver with a T-handle. Worked well. Then tonight I found one of
> those binder's tools that are used for working spines and covers.
> About a half-inch brass 2-point rule affixed to a long wood handle.
> Think that will work nicely.
> The steel plate isn't all that thick and I would think one would need
> to get fairly close to its own thickness to avoid slippage???
>> A word of caution on tapping: sometimes (especially when you're out of
>> time), you tap the plate, and the piece of steel furniture you're
>> with jumps over the edge and goes *crunch* into the line of type
>> the letter "y" looks like the letter "v")!
>> As for scratching the bunting: I know I should treat my expensive
>> better, but these things take a lot of abuse a keep working.
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