The drawing is in the files here in the folder "Balanced Lug Notes and
Ideas", together with Jim's article.
Each batten is secured at both ends in one loop of line that goes
through the boom and when pulled down to the boom is cleated off as well
as supported by the lazy jacks. No knots to tie or untie. But as you
mention the jiffy lines are longer than the reefing cringles on a
I think jiffy reefing with a batten at each reef point would work best
in a design with a slot-top as there is only the one line for each reef
and it only has to be looped around the centrally located cleat under
the boom. And it does not have to be secured immediately as the weight
of the batten should lie along the boom while one rounds up, as with a
junk sail that has no jiffy lines at all.
If the slot top is closed then one requires a central "hatch" under the
cleat on the boom to reach up through to tighten and cleat off the jiffy
line. An overlapping velcroed flap like on a rain parka or or a
water-tight zipper or something.
This is another instance where a mizzen comes in handy when soloing (As
well as a tiller control line.) - to hold the boat into the wind while
the skipper moves ahead to secure the reef.
Seems to me, installing a batten is a lot simpler than sewing in and
reinforcing all those reef points if making your own sail and may even
be stronger if the sail is made from polytarp. The trick is that the
battens have to be flexible enough to bend some or the sail will be too
flat, while at the same time having some weight so when the halyard is
loosened the sail will drop. If too light you have to go forward to haul
down the jiffy line by hand probably.
Mike Mulcahy shows how in his junk sail article. He also shows how to
add darts to give the sail some camber. He uses small screws to secure
the battens so they are removable if one breaks or you want to adjust
Here is what Jim has to say about the jiffy lines.
There is a reef line tied permanently to each corner patch of the new
reef foot. Those lines run down through faired holes drilled in the boom
end, then they run to an open based cleat near the center of the boom.
In practice those two reef lines can really be just one continuous line
running from one reef corner, through the boom, through the base of the
cleat, throught the other hole and on to the other reef corner.
The location of the holes in the boom is fairly critical. They must be
placed such that when the reef lines are pulled tight and cleated, the
corners of the reefed sail are pulled down and slightly outward to
stretch the foot of the sail just the right amount. Expect to
experiment. Since lug sails usually taper a bit, the reef line holes
tend to fall slightly inside the unreefed attachments.
The location of the cleat on the boom isn't too critical except that it
should be in a place handy when reefing. Better towards the front of the
boom than aft.
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "wwbaginski" <wwbaginski@...> wrote:
> Hi Nels,
> I can't open the link to that Bolger sail plan alas. The only
experience I had with jiffy reefing system so far was on a big sailboat
(40 footer ) and it was big help because the sail dropped a bit down was
just waiting in until a crew will walk along the boom and tie several
reef lines, one after another.
> On a small dinghy this advantage seems to be unneccesary - except
when solo sailing. This is probably the reason Jim wrote about it (he
says " always choose a boat for yourself, not for your family or your
> Raider is thought to be crewed by few oarsmen, so they can do this
job. In addition, every extra rope on a small dinghy can make a mess
when you don't expect it.
> So, it seems to me that reef lines should be tied anyway, otherwise
the sail will be blown out from its "jiffy" bed with strong wind.
Including those fully battened I 'm afraid.
> Can't catch my sailmaker at the moment...:-(
> --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Nels A" arvent@ wrote:
> > Hi Wojtek,
> > Sounds like you should listen to your sail maker and not me! Now the
> > question remains - how much of an angle?
> > I was thinking of the "jiffy reef" system with a longer line at the
> > and tack that runs through holes (dumb sheaves) each end of the boom
> > which does not have to be tied at all - just cleated at a central
> > location under the boom. Illustrated by Jim's article.
> > ED%20LUG%20JIFFY%20REEF>
> > In fact, if you install a batten at each reef point, you need no
> > all. This illustrated by a big sail plan on a Bolger design. All
> > done from the pilot house. Very much like a junk sail. But more
> > complicated than you require.
> > 20Ideas/Alaska_motorsailer_sailplan.jpg>
> > If you click on the image it enlarges for a closer view. I would be
> > interested what your sail maker would think of that? I would like to
> > something like that.
> > Nels
> > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "wwbaginski" <wwbaginski@> wrote:
> > > Hi , I was just talking to my sailmaker about reefing areas and he
> > said - being not even asked by me - that reef lines use to run not
> > exactly parallel to the boom but are a very little bit angled (upper
> > the leech) to make new clews easier to tie.
> > >
> > > I revised it in my lubber's mind and looks he's right (and Norm's
> > question was right). If you just drop clews on the boom you get them
> > more distanced if reef lines go slightly up. Easier/ quicker (no
> > with the old clew line) to tie, what is most important in rough
> > conditions.
> > >
> > > Thank you Nels :)
> > >
> > > Wojtek
> > >
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