As these are opposeing cables the amount of "slack" will translate to rudder slob. When I put mine back together I put them "tight" as you describe it which is I can deflect the cable with little effort but they are definatly not slack. I also played with them until I was satisfied that my wheel spoke was TDC when the rudder was straight (out of the water) So far under sail I think I missed by 2-3 degrees but I won't know for sure til I get out in some wind. Under power it seems pretty straight. Also you should lube the cables up good. I used a white lithium grease.
--- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28verve" <rryan14@...> wrote:
> --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Jason Smith <jason3317@> wrote:
> > I am trying to eliminate some resistance at the wheel after the rudder
> > bearing R&R. For those of you that have checked, how tight are the SS
> > wires connecting the helm chain/wire to your quadrant? This should be
> > controlled by two turnbuckles aft of the idler pulleys.
> > For example, piano string tight, very tight (little to no deflection
> > when pressure is applied), fairly tight (no visible sag along the
> > wire/turnbuckle, tight (deflection of an inch or so), or loose (a
> > visible curve, but still servicable)?
> First, I am not even close to an expert: Three years ago, we removed & rebedded the steering pedestal on our boat (while the boat was on the hard) and faced the same dilemma. We initially made the steering too tight and the wheel didn't turn fully. This was easy to detect with someone on the ground. Eventually, we found that the cables needed to be moderately tight (almost loose) and have left it alone ever since.
> > Thanks for the insight.
> > Jason