> The problem is that I fear that the diagram is not to scale. In order to get a chest circumfrence of 48", I have a garment that dangles mid-shin on my friend who has requested it. We're pretty sure that's a bit too long, but I'd like to hear from the experts. In any case, trimming it to length is easy enough, but scaling it to fit a 48" chest also results with armhole openings of nearly 30 inches around!
The diagram on I. Marc Carlson's site is a simplification and evens out a lot of the rather uneven fabric piecing that seems to have happened on the original. And the cool-looking pleated gores which are also ignored.
According to Else Østergård in "Woven into the Earth" (pp. 124, 125)
"At the time of the find it was registered that the 1140 mm long Kragelund shirt reached down to the middle thigh of the male corpse. On the basis of this measurement the man's height was estimated as c. 190 cm." (Her source for this is Hald, p. 39.)
p.125 notes that the shoulder width is 630 mm, (about 25 inches?) which would fit the guy you're sewing for.
> The other issue plaguing me is the huge amount of wasted fabric that results, no matter how many cutting configurations I've attempted. The historical logic of making the most efficient use of the yardage is not turning up.
The trapezoid parts of the upper sleeve were probably pieced from a single rectangle, given they are not a single panel like in Carlson's diagram. The rest of it is then the more 'standard' piecing of rectangles and triangles.
Track down a copy of "Woven into the Earth' and look at the drawing on page 125, and the big photo on 126. Really. It makes a lot more sense then.