... You might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner in my pick-upMessage 1 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005View Source--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
> In regards to keeping scrap wood to keep the boxes offYou might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet
> of the ground, would it be feasible to add feet to the
> bases of the boxes? With their help, I should be able
> to get basic wood cut to add maybe a 2" foot?
> (something like a 2 x 2 running down the width so that
> the grain is sideways? not certain what was meant by
> that) That would raise the boxes off of the ground,
> and with the possible stacking, also allow the
> poles/slats to be run underneath them while packing
> the van.
and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner
in my pick-up is a pain.. For my flat bottomed kitchen box, I keep a
few pieces of 2"x"4 scraps around, which is usually enough to raise
them off the ground when needed. When it's time to shove things back
in the truck, the flat bottomed box slides right in again, the scrap
wood pieces are small enough to fit in odd corners, and you haven't
added any weight to your box.
Since you're planning on your boxes doubling as seating, you might try
this. Cut two pieces of 2"x4" the width of your box plus 8 inches.
Cut four pieces 4 inches long. Drill each 4" piece for a bolt in the
center. Measure 4" from each end of the long pieces and drill the
centers of each 4" square on these as well. Sandwich the long pieces
between two 4" pieces at each end and bolt them together. You should
end up with something that looks like a squat H. If you measure
correctly, you should be able to sit your box on the long slats and
the 4" squares on the top of each end will keep it from shifting
around when someone sits on it. This will add 4" of height to your
box, though you could cut and add 4" squares to the bottom of the H if
you wanted more height. And again, once you want to pick up your box
to move it, the legs come off and aren't adding weight to your burden.
Hope this makes sense.
Does this make any sense?
> My lower leg length from heel to inner knee bend is
> just under 16". So it would also almost lift it to a
> comfortable height for me, the addition of a nicely
> worked cushion should do it, I think.
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... I don t know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12 high. Still a little short, but better. Mary Taran -- No virus found in thisMessage 2 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005View SourceAt 09:35 AM 2/3/2005, you wrote:
>I'm a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest paintingI don't know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12"
>the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is
>optional. Lots of medieval chests were painted. This box at only 7 7/8
>inches high will be too short for you to sit on, but may be just right for
>your boys if they are still small. Great size for carrying, though.
>I went through the same thing for a number of years with building or buying
>boxes too big to reasonably carry. Oddly enough, the longest-in-use piece
>of gear I own is a round-top chest I bought at the 20-year celebration.
>Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and I don't set things on
>the curved top, which means it's available when I want to sit on it. :-)
>The brass handles are modern, but I love this box and still use it anyway.
>--- Laurie Cavanaugh
high. Still a little short, but better.
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In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, firstname.lastname@example.org writes: I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble kits/models, soMessage 3 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005View SourceIn a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble
kits/models, so would this be a good compromise for
say 3-5 years for someone who does 14th Cen. Welsh
with anywhere from 0-3 boys at an event?
I can't beat their mass production prices, and they look very sturdy. I say
try one of theirs, and see how it goes for a season. You might even make sure
it gets its fair share of abuse by dropping, exposing to sun, and an hour of
good rain soaking.
Just to try it out, and you'll only lose twenty bucks on it.
I know what my stuff will do, but I do all my work by hand, and charge for it.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
... I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint or swappingMessage 4 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005View Source--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
> Kartotek box with Lid, $19.99I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble
it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint
or swapping out the hardware will hide the shiny galvanized bits.
Don't know if it's obvious from the catalog listing, but the lid is
not attached to the body of the box in any way. You'd have to install
your own hinges if you want a hinged top.
Thank you for the update Jehanne! I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely hoping to get as much info as possible before hand. AngharatMessage 5 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005View SourceThank you for the update Jehanne!
I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely
hoping to get as much info as possible before hand.
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... You re welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already attached to theMessage 6 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005View Source--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
> Thank you for the update Jehanne!You're welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts
for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already
attached to the sides - with rivets. If you decide you want to swap
out the hardware, you'll have to pry them off forcibly.
Assembly-wise, the sides are slotted so that the bottom panel fits
into it. It's never a bad idea to put a little wood glue in these
slots for added strength. The bottom panel is a thinner ply than all
the other parts, but should be OK unless you're planning on hauling
cannonballs in it. ;->
As mentioned previously, the lid lifts off. The short sides of the lid
are beveled to fit flush, strips of plywood appear to be glued on the
underside running along the long sides so the lid doesn't surf off the
chest. Caveat: I also have their APA storage box and one of the
screwed on strips decided not to stay screwed after a rough ride off a
primitive site. Depending on how hard you are on the box, you might
have to reattach one or both of these at a future date.
The long sides of the lid are not beveled, so if you want to attach
hinges and a hasp of some sort, you should be able to do so.
Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
the front and back panels.
Back to work,
... And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they didn t *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the ones on mine. AndMessage 7 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005View Source--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "wodeford" <wodeford@y...> wrote:
> Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides toAnd possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they
> the front and back panels.
didn't *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the
ones on mine.
Other than that, it goes together very easily.