At 5:07 PM +0000 1/2/04, Paul wrote:
>Happy New Year!!
>Yesterday in some freetime I constructed a tunic from online patterns
>of the Bocksten. I didnt quite have the exact measurements, so I had
>to eyeball it.
For this type of garment, working from the general schematic and then
adapting it to your measurements (and materials) is the best way to
go anyway. So what you did would have been the best approach even if
you _had_ the exact measurements.
> I am rather proud that I ended up with a wearable
>tunic made form scrap cotton (I know its not correct) So now heres my
>question. The the majority if the pattern being laid out in straight
>lines is there a way to make it less tight across the chest and loser
>in the shoulders?
Given the narrowness of the sleeve attachment, you don't really want
much looseness around the shoulders. If you make it too loose, then
(perhaps counter-intuitively) you lose a lot of your arm movement.
The version I made of this garment also came out fairly snug fitting,
but once you accept that it's supposed to fit that way, it may not be
a problem. (This is assuming that it isn't, in fact, simply too
small.) I'd say that the best way to add a little ease in the chest
and shoulders is in picking a fabric with a little more stretch to
it. (*grin* ... like wool)
If you find you simply can't get comfortable with something this
snug, you may want to try a different model to work from. For
example, the sleeve types characteristic of the Herjolfsness garments
(not meaning to imply that they're all the same) are a bit more
conducive to a loose fit at the chest and shoulders (being slightly
fuller at the top, and set into a more shaped armscye).
>Also how far up from the bottom should the gores
>extend in the front? Mine come up to about my ribcage.
While there are some garments in this general style-family where the
gores extend that high, I believe a good rule of thumb for the
Bocksten tunic is that they should end around the belt-line.
>Is there evidence that tunics had buttons on the front to allow
>opening? Especially of a heavy wool like I am about to construct.
Ah, now if you want to make a button-front garment of heavier wool,
then I highly recommend Herjolfsness #63
It's a much looser-fitting style with a open front that buttons.
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones