Thanks! You've given me some additional things to think
about/research. 8-) I've built/worn/been around so many German
dresses in the past, I've never really thought about pinning down the
historical provenance of cartridge pleats. Definitely something that
I need to explore.
I'm familiar with organ pleats, as I'm about to build the bases from
Blanche Payne's book (BTW, the originals are at the Met, from what
I've heard) for Jakob (my DH), but I think that technique would end
up being a bit heavier/stiffer than what I need for my dress.
After looking at the wonderfully clear detail of Breugel's "Peasant
Dance" you have on your website, and at a detail of Aertsen's "Market
Scene" (c. 1550), I'm starting to consider the possibility of knife
pleats; all of the women's skirts in the paintings fit closer to the
hip than in other paintings I've examined, but in the other
paintings, the women were sitting, which can cause one's skirts
to "bunch" a little bit at the waist/hip.
I would love nothing more than to spend several months in Europe to
really research this dress (and several other things) thoroughly; I'm
sure there are probably existing garments in some little museum in
the European equivalent of East Podunk. 8-D Maybe after I win the
state lottery. ;-)
> Organ pleats are definatly period, there is a set of organ pleated
> bases in Blanche Payne's book, they give the right outside look.
> a lot of german dresses, I would hesitate, as in paintings the
> open right near the waist, which couldn't happen with organ pleats.
> I find with a circular skirt (absolutely period, see Mary of
> Hungary's dress) with a wool lining (again see MoH) and box/knife
> pleats give the exact look in paintings. Very rounded, able to open
> near the top. I mention german as this was mentioned in the first
> email, even if the dress is flemish..
> I have not seen any evidence for cartridge pleats in Northern
> Rolled pleats give the closest look in straight cut skirts, which
> also an uncommon occurance in paintings, most skirts are shaped,
> which makes better use of fabric anyway. I take that from pictorial
> and surviving garments and pattern books.
> http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com for links to all my links .. up
> a month ago.. sigh, I still have a few to put up there.