Thanks for the links. Jamestown is where I usually get my hardware. I have some samples
coming from Faering, he reccomended either 12ga or 10ga (8d is the same as10ga I
I had misgivings about the plank thickness at first as well, but I'm sure it's not a misprint
in the plans, he states the thickenss in several places and it's always 3/4" (other
dimensions can be different depending on what sheet you looking at). Similar designs
including other Atkin boats use 5/8" planks for boats of the same overall dimensions.
Thats not a huge difference in plank size and because I'm using WRC instead of W. Ceadar
I'm happy with the added thickness.
I'll post some pics as I get further along, so far only the stem and transom knee are
complete. Building frame set up is next, then I start planing down my plank stock which is
busy drying in my garage : )
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...> wrote:
> Wow!! That is stout planking on the topsides. Here are my copper
> fastener links. The last one you have to look hard to find the three
> types of copper nails they have. John Gardner preferred the dished
> English roves vs the flat North American ones. He also mentioned in
> building a 15' skiff with 3/4 pine planking, to use copper clinch
> nails spaced on 2" to 2 1/2 inch centers (no gauge given).
> Hope that this helps. Post some pictures!
> --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "cartacreations"
> <cartacreations@> wrote:
> > No mistake about it, M&E is 3/4" planked bottom and sides, with
> copper rivets through the
> > laps. Copper nails are expensive but in such a small boat doing it
> right will not be cost
> > prohibitive. SilBronze screws and ring shank nails are used for
> plank to chine, stem and
> > transom joints, variously.
> > It's the use of WRC (or W Cedar as specd) that allows for such
> robust planking without too
> > much weight. I think Atkin's idea with M&E was to make a tough
> little fishing skiff and
> > gave her heavy scantlings to that end.
> > dave