Learn to paddle harder on the side where the bend is! Beau Schless NOTEbookS Library Automation (978) 443-2996 http://www.rasco.com From: aolsmile42Message 1 of 3 , May 3, 2010View SourceLearn to paddle harder on the side where the bend is!
NOTEbookS Library Automation
From: "aolsmile42" <peteringramjones@...>
Date: 05/03/2010 08:15 AM
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Questions about Snowshoe 14
Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
I'll have a go at answering these questions - they seem eerily familiar.....
1) That happened to me on my first Snowshoe14. There's not much, if anything you can do about it now except to take greater care next time 'round. What I do now is bend the ribs by holding the centre against my belly and forcing the ends "away from me and turning them inwards" if you get my drift. The aim being to keep the centre part of the rib rather flat. What you will end up with is a canoe with more rocker that the design calls for. I didn't find it adversly effected tracking. I think the keel does a lot to keep it tracking straight. I can't see how it will effect stability. The canoes are inherintly stable if you sit on the floorboards.
2)Not entirely sure what you've done here. Again, I don't think that there is much you can do to correct this. I'll make this comment for what it's worth though. You need to make sure that the bent ribs don't project beyond the stringer line so that when the skin goes on it bridges cleanly from stringer to stringer and the rib mustn't contact the skin. You can test this now with a scrap of cloth or a straight edge. If the ribs have bowed so that a straight edge between the stringers touches the rib, I'd be tempted to see if I could rectify it. Perhaps by cutting the glue joint and putting in a shim/spacer. It sounds as if your canoe might be a little fuller in the stems than desired. Again, I can't see much impact from this - try again on the next one:)
3)Another familiar problem. Also I'll guess that there's a bit of wavering up and down caused by the rib pressure. You have a chance to correct some of the side to side wavering by careful placement of the keel. I'd recommend running a string line from stem to stem and making some guide points before skinning. You're going to have to get the line free of the keel to get the most central point fixed - this is made a little more difficult by the amount of rocker built in through Step(1). Persevere with it. With a nice straight piece of keel stock you should be able to fix this one at least. Try to get it right before you skin it though - it will be much harder to do afterwards.
That's it for now - Good Luck.