Just my opinion:
Titebond would probably do fine, as long as your wood joints fit together without any gaps. It's a very nice glue to use as the cleanup is easy.
But for areas where you might have an uneven joint, thickened epoxy is the best way to go. Gap-filling glues, such as Gorilla Glue, are not a good solution for open joints, as the glue 'foams' to fill the gap, and is weak where it has foamed ... I found out the hard way :-(
I Gorilla glued all my stringer-rib joints, and when some of them came apart I re-glued every joint with epoxy.
When using epoxy make sure to coat both bare wood surfaces with the unthickened mixture first, then add enough thickened epoxy to the wood so there is generous squeeze-out at the joint. Also, don't clamp too tightly: allow some epoxy to remain between the pieces.
I use methyl hydrate for final cleanup. Filleted joints can be smoothed with a rubber-gloved finger dipped in methyl hydrate and run along a partially cured joint. Methyl hydrate is also good for final cleanup, after scraping off as much of the spilled goo as possible, before it sets up.
Hope this helps!
--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "chazzelwood" <chazzelwood@...> wrote:
> I noticed that the instructions for the Snowshoe 14 calls out for Epoxy. I found a Type 1 water resistant Wood Glue called Titebond III. Has anyone tried this glue and do you think it will work?
> Here is the description of the testing they did:
> "Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification."