To add to Beau s excellent observations: On my Classic 10, I built the rear seat using Dacron covering with heat n bond applied to the sides and bottom of theMessage 1 of 5 , Aug 18, 2008View SourceTo add to Beau's excellent observations:On my Classic 10, I built the rear seat using Dacron covering with heat 'n bond applied to the sides and bottom of the seat rails. I weigh 175, and the heat 'n bond just won't hold the fabric in place over repeated sittings. I ended up stapling on some vinyl strips under the sides, but am still having the sags. Ironing helps some, but it would have been simpler to use a store-bought or caned seat.The front seat is a wooden stool purchased at Wal-Mart whose legs I notched to fit between the floorboards. This way, the passenger can slide the seat fore and aft about 12". I can remove the seat for solo fishing trips. And yes, even a seven-pound striper will tow the boat!For lakes and rivers, I highly recommend a Torqeedo motor (with an extra battery) for the Classic 10, although expensive. I made the transom out of 3/4" ply and oriented it nearly perpendicular for motor use. I didn't see any need in my application for the Kevlar roving and have not missed it.Joel Fairstein/////////////////////Solar Labs1006 North Mary StKnoxville, TN 37914v 865.523.4313f 865.523.4846www.solar-labs.comOn Aug 18, 2008, at 7:52 AM, bschless@... wrote:
Joel: If you have used the Torqueedo enough at this point, would it be possible to provide some real world performance data in the Classic 10? ParticularlyMessage 1 of 5 , Aug 18, 2008View SourceJoel:
If you have used the Torqueedo enough at this point, would it be possible to provide some real world performance data in the Classic 10? Particularly range with a given AH battery capacity? Thanks,
--- On Mon, 8/18/08, Joel Fairstein <castle1925@...> wrote:
> From: Joel Fairstein <castle1925@...>
> Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Classic 10 Reflections - More
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 8:50 AM
> To add to Beau's excellent observations:
> On my Classic 10, I built the rear seat using Dacron
> covering with
> heat 'n bond applied to the sides and bottom of the
> seat rails. I
> weigh 175, and the heat 'n bond just won't hold the
> fabric in place
> over repeated sittings. I ended up stapling on some vinyl
> under the sides, but am still having the sags. Ironing
> helps some,
> but it would have been simpler to use a store-bought or
> caned seat.
> The front seat is a wooden stool purchased at Wal-Mart
> whose legs I
> notched to fit between the floorboards. This way, the
> passenger can
> slide the seat fore and aft about 12". I can remove
> the seat for solo
> fishing trips. And yes, even a seven-pound striper will tow
> the boat!
> For lakes and rivers, I highly recommend a Torqeedo motor
> (with an
> extra battery) for the Classic 10, although expensive. I
> made the
> transom out of 3/4" ply and oriented it nearly
> perpendicular for
> motor use. I didn't see any need in my application for
> the Kevlar
> roving and have not missed it.
> Joel Fairstein
> Solar Labs
> 1006 North Mary St
> Knoxville, TN 37914
> v 865.523.4313
> f 865.523.4846
> On Aug 18, 2008, at 7:52 AM, bschless@... wrote:
> > I built a Classic 10 last winter. I also had troubles
> with Platt's
> > instructions. His widow was as helpful as she could
> be; but she
> > wasn't Platt. The video was near worthless. The
> > done one is great and worth the extra money.
> > I didn't understand how important it was to place
> the ribs "just
> > so". You need to make where they will go on the
> stringers (all of
> > them) so you can position them exactly right.
> Otherwise they won't
> > be straight.
> > Don't paint, polyurethane it. It looks cooler to
> be able to see
> > through it. And don't let the paint/varnish run.
> It's what will
> > show the most when the boat is in the water.
> > I bought commercial bronze oarlocks and pinions.
> When I decided
> > to add a second pair I went to a TrueValue hardware
> store and found
> > excellent bronze fittings for the pinions in the
> screws and
> > hardware section. Don't know what they're
> supposed to be there for,
> > but they fit an oarlock perfectly. I now use these,
> and not the
> > commercial ones.
> > The seat position on the 10 is way of (way too far
> aft). When a
> > 125 lb. second person is in the boat it practically
> sinks at the
> > stern. I solved this by building an adjustable middle
> seat (on
> > rails). I now keep the seat in the forward position
> all the time.
> > Could have saved weight and work by positioning the
> seat forward in
> > the first place. If you want a picture of the rails
> design email me.
> > The boat makes a great rowboat, but the gunwales are
> is a little
> > low when you get in rough seas. The problem is that
> the oars hit
> > the chop. Don't know how you could solve this
> without redesigning
> > the boat, unless you built up the rowing blocks.
> > While you're building her, put in a trolling rod
> holder. I built a
> > 2" x 2" block with a 1" hole in the
> center that I epoxied to the
> > middle floorboard and transom. On the top edge of the
> transom I
> > use 2 little brass screws and a rubber band to hold my
> rod upright.
> > Then when a fish strikes I pull off the rubber band
> and away we
> > go. I'm wondering if I get a big enough Striper
> if it will pull my
> > Classic 10!
> > I bought beautiful split cane seats from a canoe seat
> place in the
> > Adirondacks. They look great, but were a) expensive,
> b) heavy, and
> > c) not home made. So I suggest making your own.
> > Keep the weight down. My boat probably weighs in at
> 70 pounds
> > (with oars, life preservers, etc). It's too damn
> heavy to lift. I
> > have a set of wheels I use to take it back and forth
> to the beach.
> > Next boat will be minimalist!
> > The boat has been used all summer with great success.
> I live at
> > the mouth of the ocean and use it to cross the bay at
> least 3 - 4
> > times per week. It is an able and great rower. I
> need to figure
> > out how to put floatation in it before the inevitable
> > Beau Schless
> > President/CEO
> > NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
> > Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers'
> > HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
> > PH: 1.(978) 443-2996