I am about the same size as you, 6'1", 240 lbs, and have spent a couple thousand hours paddling canoes, much of it in places with similar terrain as the BWCA. Probably half that in these fabric covered canoes. I've been through your thought process a couple times and here's how it turned out for me. The number one consideration on trips like this is safety. Many decisions will have to be made where completing the trip with your health and all your gear intact will have an impact on what you decide to bring and do.
These boats are tougher than most people think, especially if using a heavier fabric (6 oz) but the 2.x oz stuff is also fine. They do need to be taken care of (load/unload in the water, don't drag it across the shore, ...) but you should be doing that with any canoe anyway. There are some canoes that will take a lot of abuse (Royalex, rotomolded plastic) but they start at 65 lbs and go up from there. Kevlar or similar canoes should be treated with similar care as these fabric boats anyway. You shouldn't be too worried about a leak caused by abrasion or small tears. These can easily be patched with Gorilla tape or that red insulation tape. I used the latter with good success before Gorilla tape was available, but prefer Gorilla tape and have since switched over to it. What you really want to worry about is breaking a framing member (in my experience usually a stringer, rib, or glue joint) and how to deal with that on day 2 of a 7 day trip. Some of this is going to depend on how you sit (or kneel) in the boat and what kind of gear you bring. Soft sided stuff works well as the weight distributes over several framing members. Something firmer can create pressure points that can stress the frame or skin. Have some experience from shorter trips with your boat before taking it on a long one, so that you know that the way you sit in it and load it won't be breaking things.
You asked about pokey sticks on portages. I've bushwacked (thick enough brush, no trail) my canoes a few times (~1500 yards each time) with zero problems, and have actually used it to push brush and tree branches aside. Nothing that I've encountered in all those years of portaging would have caused a concern for these boats. On top of that, the light weight makes them easy to be thoughtful about picking the path on the portage.
Stability and decent freeboard are important, especially in the wilderness, especially on big lakes, and especially when by yourself! The consequences of flipping out there are way more serious than a casual paddle at the cottage. I can't comment on the SnowShoe 16's stability because I've haven't built one. I have built a SnowShoe 14, which has a 4" narrower beam, put a seat in it and kneel with my butt 8" off the floor. I find that jittery and would never take it where it mattered whether I flipped or not. I've also built a Nimrod that I stretched out to 13' (to increase the capacity to carry
my bulk) and this is my favorite of the 7 canoes I've had. I put a
seat in it too (7.5") but it is quite stable, thanks to the flat bottom
and the extra width (32+"). I'd expect the SnowShoe 16 to be pretty stable, but hopefully someone who actually has one will comment first hand.
You're wondering about a classic. I've never seen anyone using a boat like that in the wilderness, but that's likely because those boats are traditionally built to be too heavy for this application, not that the hull shape doesn't work. Most portage trails can probably handle a boat that wide. Would the weight of oars be a factor? They're quite a bit heavier than a paddle. I assume you're considering a classic for stability reasons. Canoes are stable enough IMO, especially on the flat waters of the BWCA. Regarding the trolling motor, you can use that on any canoe. It doesn't have to have a transom. I use one on my Nimrod and it works just fine.