David, I m curious! If you are only off by 1/8 inch (about on center span)...and I assume that your strongback is some 15 to 17 feet in length, why don t youMessage 1 of 3 , Aug 19, 2007View SourceDavid,I'm curious!If you are only off by 1/8 inch (about on center span)...and I assume that your strongback is some 15 to 17 feet in length, why don't you simply add some bracing between the floor and the bottom of your strongback, to bring it into level? I'd much rather do that than mess with changing the mould stations. Seems to me that a few extra boards to brace the span of the strongback could easily compensate for a 1/8 inch sag (and I'm assuming it is a sag) in the middle of the span.Regardless of what you end up doing...it helps to take the extra time to make sure the strongback is as straight, true, level and twist-free as you can get it before mounting the mould stations. I know that I spent a day-and-a-half setting my sixteen-foot strongback (for the Arrow-14), as close to perfect as I could get it...including correcting slight divots and imperfections in the garage concrete floor, beneath the legs. I used a four-foot level (because that's what I had...but longer is better) to traverse the strongback table along the length as well as front to back, as well as leveling to the taunt-string.Good luck...maybe you'll get some other opinions as well.Mike O.----- Original Message -----From: millhavenguySent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 2:09 PMSubject: [Airolite_Boats] Getting started!
I have built my strongback and have a question as to the positioning of
the molds. I have a string stretched length-wise on the strongback and
there must be a sway in my strongback as there is some difference( 1/8"
in the middle)in the height of the string off of the strongback. If I
shim the molds to where the bottom of the molds all just touch the
string will I be OK?