Alex

You should thank him for selling it for that price.

You go to Walmart, Home Depot, or Any of the Sport Marts out there they have a
90% mark up. Your screws you buy at hardware stores have anyware between 100%
mark up to 400% mark up. You all heard of those $100.00 basketball shoes costing
$5.00 in some cases it true. The hobby Industy only has a max of 40% mark up and
most sell for less that why so many hobby shops go out of bussiness.

Kevin

--- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "Alex" <techrepjapan@...> wrote:
>
> Most of us "experianced" buyers and sellers know of that certain auction site.
And, we also know that we can sometimes find a good deal... other times, not so.
Here is one of those times...
>
> Search for listing #170520492223. I prefer not to post a direct link.
>
> I don't know this seller.  He's selling a recent Micro-Trains weathered
release at $6.05 over MSRP. These are NOT sold out. So... I sent him this little
message...
>
> "Hello, How are you? Okay... I'm curious. Why are you selling this for $6.05
over retail pricing? These are very easy to get for $10.00 less than what you're
selling them for. Thanks"
>
> The seller's reply...
>
> "Then you can buy them there, not here. I sell for what I think I can get, 95%
of the time, some body does not know pricing, or see's an item he just has to
have, or an item that is scarce, Thanks Curious"
>
> Well... at least his reply is honest. But... disappointing.
>
> Folks... please be careful and research before spending your hard-earned $ on
our hobby.
>
The first rule on *bay is Buyer Beware
The second rule is watch your shipping price & method
The third rule is set your price & stick to it.
Don't let the excitement of the auction determine the final price.

http://agp-schwarzwaldbahn.blogspot.com/2010/02/led.html

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_qh55JF4fIC4/TCqFZUjTXtI/AAAAAAAACLk/\
RqHusjIQnFk/s1600/8856_11.jpg

ZaludoZ

Good morning to you all,

Can anyone recommend any good suppliers of these Marklin LED Light replacements?

Regards,

Michael.





________________________________
From: Angel <agarpin@...>
To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 1 August, 2010 23:18:03
Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Marklin Locos - adding LED lights



http://agp-schwarzwaldbahn.blogspot.com/2010/02/led.html

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_qh55JF4fIC4/TCqFZUjTXtI/AAAAAAAACLk/\
RqHusjIQnFk/s1600/8856_11.jpg

ZaludoZ







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Stonebridge Models is pleased to announce

This Month's New Z Scale Kit Releases!
Z Scale Laser Cut Kits
PLUS:
a NEW Accessory

Chicken Coop Laser cut kit
Wooden Corn Crib Laser Cut Kit
Open Shed Laser Cut Kit
300 Scale Feet of Corral/Farm Fencing
Silo (pre-made cone top, includes both "skins")
Handmade Evergreen Trees by Loren Snyder of Z Train Things,Box of 6 trees
**********************************************************************
Please visit our website for more product info and purchasing;
http://www.stonebridgemodels.com

Hello Michael,

> Can anyone recommend any good suppliers of these Marklin LED Light
replacements?

try here:

http://www.z-hightech.de/?sprache=englisch

for US residents check here:

http://www.ztrackcenter.com/htm/marklin/index.html



--
GreetingZ
Uwe

CAN SOMEONE CONFORM FOR ME THAT THE WAY TO USE 3 MARKLIN Z POWER PACKS ON 3
CONNECTED BUT ISOLATED LOOPS IS TO CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE ON EACH PACK TO EACH
OTHER AND TO ONE RAIL OF EACH LOOP AND THE RED OF EACH POWER PACK TO THE OTHER
RAIL.

SHOULD I CONNECT RED INSTEAD OF BROWN

TONY

Tony;

You do not connect anything from one power pack to another. You connect the
brown and red to opposite rials in one block which is totally isolated from the
others with insulators on the rails. When you run a train across the block
boundary the polarity of the two power packs has to match or the engine will
arrive at the block boundary and do a bit of a dance back and forth and if left
you could burn out the motor.

In Z the power to the track is DC so no interconnection between power packs is
required with Marklin controllers if they were designed for Z.

If you connect the power packs as you described the first and get then running
then the first time you reversed one of them you would create a short circuit.

SO again in DC operation each loop is totally isolated from the other and served
by one power pack. There is wiring that allows you with block wiring allows you
to choose which power pack you are going to sue for any one block but ensures
that only one at a time is connect to any one block.

cheerz Garth

--- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, "tony_mrr" <tony_mrr@...> wrote:
>
> CAN SOMEONE CONFORM FOR ME THAT THE WAY TO USE 3 MARKLIN Z POWER PACKS ON 3
CONNECTED BUT ISOLATED LOOPS IS TO CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE ON EACH PACK TO EACH
OTHER AND TO ONE RAIL OF EACH LOOP AND THE RED OF EACH POWER PACK TO THE OTHER
RAIL.
>
> SHOULD I CONNECT RED INSTEAD OF BROWN
>
> TONY
>

> I am ahead of you on this one. While yes the cars run much better with the new
three axle trucks. However, they do not look good as they sit too far back from
the vestibule steps and you have to create a new hole for the truck pin. If you
use the existing hole the coupler sits way out in front of the car so you have
to shorten the arm off of the truck. Hopefully we will eventually see a heavy
weight 6 wheel truck for Z. If it were here we just might see a lot more action
on heavy weight cars.

They can be fiddly to build but reasonable trucks are very easy to etch
to most designs and sizes.

Alan

If you have an operating Z scale layout in the area around San Luis Obispo (from
Paso Robles to Santa Maria) this is the final call to add your layout to Layout
Tour #21.

Tour #21 is part of the Central Coast Railroad Festival in San Luis Obispo on
October 7-11.

If you have a layout and may be interested in participating in the layout tour
or have any questions before committing to the tour, please contact me in the
next week or so.  If you know of a layout owner who may be interested, also
please contact me or pass this message on to them.

Contact me OFF LIST at:

thecitrusbelt@...

Festival Website: www.ccrrf.com

Layout Tour #22 will be in the area from Upland to San Bernardino on November
20, 2010.

Layout Tour #23 will cover most of Los Angeles, Orange and Ventura Counties on
February 17-20, 2011, as part of the Twenty-Sixth Annual Sn3 Symposium being
held in Monrovia, CA.

Bob Chaparro
Moderator
Model Railroads Of Southern California
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Model_Railroads_Of_Southern_California/

While traveling last week, I was looking on the well know auction site, and ran
accross a gentleman that was doing British castings of a class 47 in resin and
transfers for marklin coaches. When I finally got home yesterday, I could not
find any trace of this gentleman.  Does anyone have a leads on this person. 
Thanks.

Ed

I am sure they are easy to etch if you have the
materials,equipment,chemicals, and the knowledge. Then will they fit
the existing metal wheel sets and roll free. At present we do not have
any 36 inch metal wheels in Z that I know of.

I figure you have to be pretty accurate with your drawings and etching
to get the axle end holes right and align them through two or three
layers of etched material during the folding and assembly.

Tried to do a metal frame to use behind the truck side frame castings
from the Hallmark cars. The end result looked fine but the metal just
chewed the end of the delrin axles on the wheel sets even when the
axle hole was chamfered so no luck there.

Cheerz Garth


On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 1:45 PM, Alan Cox <alan@...> wrote:
>> I am ahead of you on this one. While yes the cars run much better with the
new three axle trucks. However, they do not look good as they sit too far back
from the vestibule steps and you have to create a new hole for the truck pin. If
you use the existing hole the coupler sits way out in front of the car so you
have to shorten the arm off of the truck. Hopefully we will eventually see a
heavy weight 6 wheel truck for Z. If it were here we just might see a lot more
action on heavy weight cars.
>
> They can be fiddly to build but reasonable trucks are very easy to etch
> to most designs and sizes.
>
> Alan
>
>

I have three of the CSX SD40-2s still available.....New in box, never run.
$160.00 apiece. Rd. #8033.

Interested?......Email to ljsnyder@...

Loren

Has anyone installed DCC into the Marklin 5 pole motor F7 Diesel locomotive?

Can it be done?

Murray

I don't know about an F7A.  I've had an F9 Marklin done for me and also F7A
& F7B MTL units.

...don




On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 6:07 PM, Murray E. Milligan <railfan@...>wrote:

>
>
> Has anyone installed DCC into the Marklin 5 pole motor F7 Diesel
> locomotive?
>
> Can it be done?
>
> Murray
>
>



--
*...don a*  *- Northern Ohio, USA*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Am Montag, 2. August 2010 19:41:25 schrieb epressey2002:
> While traveling last week, I was looking on the well know auction site, and
> ran accross a gentleman that was doing British castings of a class 47 in
> resin and transfers for marklin coaches. When I finally got home yesterday,
> I could not find any trace of this gentleman.  Does anyone have a leads on
> this person.  Thanks.

Hello Ed.

Maybe you speak of the gentleman, who posted below message via a British
yahoo-group. Only difference seems to be that he use rapid prototyping instead
of resine.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

Best greetz
Arnim


----------  Weitergeleitete Nachricht  ----------

Betreff: [Z Gauge British and European] Any interest in possible British
outline wagons?
Datum: Samstag, 15. Mai 2010
Von: "janitorium" <yahoo@...>
An: zgaugebritishandeuropean@yahoogroups.com

I've been toying with doing some British outline in Z scale for some time now,
and decided it would be interesting to experiment with some of the rapid
prototyping technologies that are around now - as a result of which I've
managed to end up with a handful of prototype wagons which you can see the
best of here:

http://gallery.me.com/big.stu#100040

I'm also looking at the feasibility of brake vans (BR 20T/GWR Toad) and
possibly even Mk 1 coaches running on MTL bogies.

It occurred to me that other people may be interested if these could be
produced at a reasonable price, so I thought I'd de-lurk and see if there was
any interest, and try and gain some feedback on what people might like. So
here are the questions:

1) Is anyone interested in 16T mineral wagons or planked wagons as depicted in
the gallery linked above? (Or similar variants - should be possible to easily
do N-plank or even a flat wagon.)

2) Would interest be in small quantities (less than 5) or rakes (10 or more)?

3) Metal (Full-throttle 33") or plastic (MTL 33" or 36") wheels?

4) Couplings - Marklin/MTL/Simple pin/Other?

Or any other wagon types which might be of interest?

My very rough back of an envelope calculation (i.e. don't hold me to this)
suggests that in small quantities, unpainted wagons with wheelsets, buffers
and some form of couplers are going to cost somewhere between £15-£20 to
produce. This doesn't seem an outrageous price range to be in compared to the
commercial offerings (but guess it may end up being more if they are painted
and sensibly packaged) - what do people think?

At the moment I guess there are three potential outcomes:

a) There is no interest and I'll just get a few made for myself.

b) There is some interest and it may even be possible to have them made in
sufficient quantities  for the per-unit cost to drop a bit.

c) There is a lot of interest and it may be worth investigating 'proper'
production technologies (e.g. injection moulding).

So - please let me know (privately or on list) if you're interested. I look
forward to hearing from you :) Meanwhile I shall continue experimenting with
some simple coupler technology which is compatible with Marklin couplers and
suitable weights...

Stu


-------------------------------------------------------

> Maybe you speak of the gentleman, who posted below message via a British
> yahoo-group. Only difference seems to be that he use rapid prototyping instead
> of resine.

The 47 in that looks like the old Ellmar one ? The wagons look nice
though. I've found most 3d printed stuff to look very bobbly but those
look okay.

> I'm also looking at the feasibility of brake vans (BR 20T/GWR Toad) and
> possibly even Mk 1 coaches running on MTL bogies.

Sounds somewhat odd given the fact UK B4, commonwealth and BR1 bogies
used on these vehicles are 8'6" wheelbase with 3' and 3'6" wheels.

I did look at doing some etched Z scale UK bits, but the reality is that
in the UK the availability of Z scale wheels, fine scale Z track or
mechanisms (Marklin ones seem too fat for UK scale prototypes as the UK
loading gauge is small) is minimal at best.

On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:31:31 -0400
Garth Hamilton <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:

> I am sure they are easy to etch if you have the
> materials,equipment,chemicals, and the knowledge. Then will they fit
> the existing metal wheel sets and roll free. At present we do not have
> any 36 inch metal wheels in Z that I know of.

That makes it a bit trickier.

> I figure you have to be pretty accurate with your drawings and etching
> to get the axle end holes right and align them through two or three
> layers of etched material during the folding and assembly.

The drawing side isn't hard with CAD, and if its etched using a
commercial etcher your accuracy is not a problem (home etching is another
ball game and one I don't bother playing!). The trick I use (and its not
original) is to align the layers using the brass bearings. Not an
original trick at all. The other traditional thing needed (but much less
relevant if at all nowdays) is to put any overlays directly below the
main etch on the sheet and the same alignment so any minor distortion
applies equally to each layer.

> Tried to do a metal frame to use behind the truck side frame castings
> from the Hallmark cars. The end result looked fine but the metal just
> chewed the end of the delrin axles on the wheel sets even when the
> axle hole was chamfered so no luck there.

It will do - you really need turned brass bearing cups. With bearing cups
the wheels roll very smoothly and don't wear that I can see even after
heavy use. They also make building and assembling the bogie much easier
as they protrude through the layers aligning it. Not sure where you would
find them in the USA but I use Parkside Dundas ones meant for N scale -
they fit the MT wheels nicely.

Alan

dear garth

my layout only isolates only one rail using marklin 8588 isolation track.

is there no way to have a common ground


tony



--- On Mon, 8/2/10, Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:

> From: Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...>
> Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, August 2, 2010, 1:14 PM
> Tony;
>
> You do not connect anything from one power pack to another.
> You connect the brown and red to opposite rials in one block
> which is totally isolated from the others with insulators on
> the rails. When you run a train across the block boundary
> the polarity of the two power packs has to match or the
> engine will arrive at the block boundary and do a bit of a
> dance back and forth and if left you could burn out the
> motor.
>
> In Z the power to the track is DC so no interconnection
> between power packs is required with Marklin controllers if
> they were designed for Z.
>
> If you connect the power packs as you described the first
> and get then running then the first time you reversed one of
> them you would create a short circuit.
>
> SO again in DC operation each loop is totally isolated from
> the other and served by one power pack. There is wiring that
> allows you with block wiring allows you to choose which
> power pack you are going to sue for any one block but
> ensures that only one at a time is connect to any one block.
>
>
> cheerz Garth
>
> --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com,
> "tony_mrr" <tony_mrr@...> wrote:
> >
> > CAN SOMEONE CONFORM FOR ME THAT THE WAY TO USE 3
> MARKLIN Z POWER PACKS ON 3 CONNECTED BUT ISOLATED LOOPS IS
> TO CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE ON EACH PACK TO EACH OTHER AND TO
> ONE RAIL OF EACH LOOP AND THE RED OF EACH POWER PACK TO THE
> OTHER RAIL.
> >
> > SHOULD I CONNECT RED INSTEAD OF BROWN
> >
> > TONY
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

Yes bearing cups will work but I know of no source over hear and up to
now did not know of a source other 2mm society which requires
membership to purchase. Do not know a commercial etcher who will do
small jobs over here either. As for the drawing I like the Japanese
way of doing the layout of the overlays as one sheet with fold lines
so they fold and they do up to three layers in this manner. I think
for the builder there are much better opportunities for craftsman type
support in the hobby in the UK than over here.

cheerz Garth

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 5:42 AM, Alan Cox <alan@...> wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 15:31:31 -0400
> Garth Hamilton <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:
>
>> I am sure they are easy to etch if you have the
>> materials,equipment,chemicals, and the knowledge. Then will they fit
>> the existing metal wheel sets and roll free. At present we do not have
>> any 36 inch metal wheels in Z that I know of.
>
> That makes it a bit trickier.
>
>> I figure you have to be pretty accurate with your drawings and etching
>> to get the axle end holes right and align them through two or three
>> layers of etched material during the folding and assembly.
>
> The drawing side isn't hard with CAD, and if its etched using a
> commercial etcher your accuracy is not a problem (home etching is another
> ball game and one I don't bother playing!). The trick I use (and its not
> original) is to align the layers using the brass bearings. Not an
> original trick at all. The other traditional thing needed (but much less
> relevant if at all nowdays) is to put any overlays directly below the
> main etch on the sheet and the same alignment so any minor distortion
> applies equally to each layer.
>
>> Tried to do a metal frame to use behind the truck side frame castings
>> from the Hallmark cars. The end result looked fine but the metal just
>> chewed the end of the delrin axles on the wheel sets even when the
>> axle hole was chamfered so no luck there.
>
> It will do - you really need turned brass bearing cups. With bearing cups
> the wheels roll very smoothly and don't wear that I can see even after
> heavy use. They also make building and assembling the bogie much easier
> as they protrude through the layers aligning it. Not sure where you would
> find them in the USA but I use Parkside Dundas ones meant for N scale -
> they fit the MT wheels nicely.
>
> Alan
>

With DC track power you are switching the polarity of the power to the rails
back and forth to make your engine go forward or backward. So you can use a
common only with one power pack as the supply source but not with multiple power
packs because as soon as you change the direction of one power pack in a
multiple power pack with common on one rail you create problem where you have
one rail above ground/common and one below and if you try driving a loco across
the gap between the two blocks you now have twice the voltage and amperage in
the short and you do damage to your loco. The track power at the gap is trying
to drive the engine on one side of the gap to the other and on reaching the
other side to drive it back and next you know there is a puff of smoke and the
motor is gone. The isolation track you talk of I have only seen it used to
create automatic stop and go and signalling features not as block boundaries. I
use the insulated rail joiners on both rails at a block boundary or cut the
rails and fill the gap with epoxy to prevent track expansion from closing it.

cheerz Garth

--- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com, Tony Dalileo <tony_mrr@...> wrote:
>
> dear garth
>
> my layout only isolates only one rail using marklin 8588 isolation track.
>
> is there no way to have a common ground
>
>
> tony
>
>
>
> --- On Mon, 8/2/10, Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:
>
> > From: Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...>
> > Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Monday, August 2, 2010, 1:14 PM
> > Tony;
> >
> > You do not connect anything from one power pack to another.
> > You connect the brown and red to opposite rials in one block
> > which is totally isolated from the others with insulators on
> > the rails. When you run a train across the block boundary
> > the polarity of the two power packs has to match or the
> > engine will arrive at the block boundary and do a bit of a
> > dance back and forth and if left you could burn out the
> > motor.
> >
> > In Z the power to the track is DC so no interconnection
> > between power packs is required with Marklin controllers if
> > they were designed for Z.
> >
> > If you connect the power packs as you described the first
> > and get then running then the first time you reversed one of
> > them you would create a short circuit.
> >
> > SO again in DC operation each loop is totally isolated from
> > the other and served by one power pack. There is wiring that
> > allows you with block wiring allows you to choose which
> > power pack you are going to sue for any one block but
> > ensures that only one at a time is connect to any one block.
> >
> >
> > cheerz Garth
> >
> > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com,
> > "tony_mrr" <tony_mrr@> wrote:
> > >
> > > CAN SOMEONE CONFORM FOR ME THAT THE WAY TO USE 3
> > MARKLIN Z POWER PACKS ON 3 CONNECTED BUT ISOLATED LOOPS IS
> > TO CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE ON EACH PACK TO EACH OTHER AND TO
> > ONE RAIL OF EACH LOOP AND THE RED OF EACH POWER PACK TO THE
> > OTHER RAIL.
> > >
> > > SHOULD I CONNECT RED INSTEAD OF BROWN
> > >
> > > TONY
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>

> Yes bearing cups will work but I know of no source over hear and up to
> now did not know of a source other 2mm society which requires
> membership to purchase. Do not know a commercial etcher who will do

Markits in the UK do them bulk, and Parkside Dundas do them in smaller
volume. They are actually shallower than the 2mmSA ones which makes them
even better for Z scale work. Markits will happily sell you them in
hundreds or thousands at bulk prices if you think there is a US market 8)

> small jobs over here either. As for the drawing I like the Japanese

Not sure on US commercial etchers who will do small scale. Lots of UK
bigger etched kit people will stick other jobs on corners of sheets
though - dunno if it is the same in the USA or not.

> way of doing the layout of the overlays as one sheet with fold lines
> so they fold and they do up to three layers in this manner.

Yes - works nicely for most things.

Alan

On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 22:42:52 -0700 (PDT)
Tony Dalileo <tony_mrr@...> wrote:

> dear garth
>
> my layout only isolates only one rail using marklin 8588 isolation track.
>
> is there no way to have a common ground

You just need to be a bit more careful about when locomotives or stock
can span the gaps. Avoiding a common ground doesn't really avoid that
either - merely makes it less likely. Even without a common you can end
up with a wheel across the gap on one rail and the voltage difference
across the trucks the other side. Ditto with Maklin overhead and a loco
on the track backwards.

As far as I can tell (on the basis of having done this a few times)
Märklin stock is at least engineered to survive brief incidents of this
type. The modern Marklin power units also seem to be reasonably smart
about shorts.

For loops I see no reason to connect one side of the supplies together as
it's not as if it makes the wiring much simpler - for block sections it
can although there at least you can have an intermediate block which can
be switched from one supply to the other - something you don't have room
for between loops usually.

Alan

dear garth

thank you. can i cut a gap in the uncut rail on the isolation track to do the
job.  the marklin isolation pins dont hold track together very well and the
metal connector that comes on the marklin track are attached into the plastic
and i cant get then off without damaging the track.

how do you solve these problems

tony

--- On Tue, 8/3/10, Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...> wrote:

> From: Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...>
> Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 12:22 PM
> With DC track power you are switching
> the polarity of the power to the rails back and forth to
> make your engine go forward or backward. So you can use a
> common only with one power pack as the supply source but not
> with multiple power packs because as soon as you change the
> direction of one power pack in a multiple power pack with
> common on one rail you create problem where you have one
> rail above ground/common and one below and if you try
> driving a loco across the gap between the two blocks you now
> have twice the voltage and amperage in the short and you do
> damage to your loco. The track power at the gap is trying to
> drive the engine on one side of the gap to the other and on
> reaching the other side to drive it back and next you know
> there is a puff of smoke and the motor is gone. The
> isolation track you talk of I have only seen it used to
> create automatic stop and go and signalling features not as
> block boundaries. I use the insulated rail joiners on both
> rails at a block boundary or cut the rails and fill the gap
> with epoxy to prevent track expansion from closing it.
>
> cheerz Garth
>
> --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com,
> Tony Dalileo <tony_mrr@...> wrote:
> >
> > dear garth
> >
> > my layout only isolates only one rail using marklin
> 8588 isolation track.
> >
> > is there no way to have a common ground
> >
> >
> > tony
> >
> >
> >
> > --- On Mon, 8/2/10, Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > > From: Garth <garth.a.hamilton@...>
> > > Subject: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> > > To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Monday, August 2, 2010, 1:14 PM
> > > Tony;
> > >
> > > You do not connect anything from one power pack
> to another.
> > > You connect the brown and red to opposite rials
> in one block
> > > which is totally isolated from the others with
> insulators on
> > > the rails. When you run a train across the block
> boundary
> > > the polarity of the two power packs has to match
> or the
> > > engine will arrive at the block boundary and do a
> bit of a
> > > dance back and forth and if left you could burn
> out the
> > > motor.
> > >
> > > In Z the power to the track is DC so no
> interconnection
> > > between power packs is required with Marklin
> controllers if
> > > they were designed for Z.
> > >
> > > If you connect the power packs as you described
> the first
> > > and get then running then the first time you
> reversed one of
> > > them you would create a short circuit.
> > >
> > > SO again in DC operation each loop is totally
> isolated from
> > > the other and served by one power pack. There is
> wiring that
> > > allows you with block wiring allows you to choose
> which
> > > power pack you are going to sue for any one block
> but
> > > ensures that only one at a time is connect to any
> one block.
> > >
> > >
> > > cheerz Garth
> > >
> > > --- In z_scale@yahoogroups.com,
> > > "tony_mrr" <tony_mrr@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > CAN SOMEONE CONFORM FOR ME THAT THE WAY TO
> USE 3
> > > MARKLIN Z POWER PACKS ON 3 CONNECTED BUT ISOLATED
> LOOPS IS
> > > TO CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE ON EACH PACK TO EACH
> OTHER AND TO
> > > ONE RAIL OF EACH LOOP AND THE RED OF EACH POWER
> PACK TO THE
> > > OTHER RAIL.
> > > >
> > > > SHOULD I CONNECT RED INSTEAD OF BROWN
> > > >
> > > > TONY
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

dear alan

so the reason my engines run independantly on the 2 loops with 2 power packs is
that i havent gone across the gap.  i have burned out the front lights on my
a-b-a engine set.

what i dont understand is when both loops are in difference directions then i
have the plus side of one pack connected to the neg side of the other pack via
the common rail why dont i get a short?

could the fact that the powerpacks are connected to the tracks via a 8590
terminal track which has a interference isolated between the pack and track. i
assume that its for radio interference prevention but could it also be isolating
the power packs and somehow allows the opposite polarity of 2 packs to be
connected and not short out


tony



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, Alan Cox <alan@...> wrote:

> From: Alan Cox <alan@...>
> Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 1:24 PM
> On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 22:42:52 -0700
> (PDT)
> Tony Dalileo <tony_mrr@...>
> wrote:
>
> > dear garth
> >
> > my layout only isolates only one rail using marklin
> 8588 isolation track.
> >
> > is there no way to have a common ground
>
> You just need to be a bit more careful about when
> locomotives or stock
> can span the gaps. Avoiding a common ground doesn't really
> avoid that
> either - merely makes it less likely. Even without a common
> you can end
> up with a wheel across the gap on one rail and the voltage
> difference
> across the trucks the other side. Ditto with Maklin
> overhead and a loco
> on the track backwards.
>
> As far as I can tell (on the basis of having done this a
> few times)
> Märklin stock is at least engineered to survive brief
> incidents of this
> type. The modern Marklin power units also seem to be
> reasonably smart
> about shorts.
>
> For loops I see no reason to connect one side of the
> supplies together as
> it's not as if it makes the wiring much simpler - for block
> sections it
> can although there at least you can have an intermediate
> block which can
> be switched from one supply to the other - something you
> don't have room
> for between loops usually.
>
> Alan
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

Hi,

Here is the link to the web page I believe you refer to -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230503672915&ssPageName=ADME:\
B:SS:US:1123


e**y ID - and1969hill

Regards,

Michael.





________________________________
From: epressey2002 <cap_eleven@...>
To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 2 August, 2010 18:41:25
Subject: [Z_Scale] Looking for the person who is going a resin British Class 47
diesel, and coachs


While traveling last week, I was looking on the well know auction site, and ran
accross a gentleman that was doing British castings of a class 47 in resin and
transfers for marklin coaches. When I finally got home yesterday, I could not
find any trace of this gentleman.  Does anyone have a leads on this person.
Thanks.

Ed







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

... bloody spell checker! ID = ant1969hill

Regards,

Michael.





________________________________
From: Michael Crane <crane_alma@...>
To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 3 August, 2010 17:38:20
Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Looking for the person who is going a resin British Class
47 diesel, and coachs


Hi,

Here is the link to the web page I believe you refer to -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230503672915&ssPageName=ADME:\
B:SS:US:1123


e**y ID - and1969hill

Regards,

Michael.

________________________________
From: epressey2002 <cap_eleven@...>
To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 2 August, 2010 18:41:25
Subject: [Z_Scale] Looking for the person who is going a resin British Class 47
diesel, and coachs

While traveling last week, I was looking on the well know auction site, and ran
accross a gentleman that was doing British castings of a class 47 in resin and
transfers for marklin coaches. When I finally got home yesterday, I could not
find any trace of this gentleman.  Does anyone have a leads on this person.
Thanks.

Ed

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> what i dont understand is when both loops are in difference directions then i
have the plus side of one pack connected to the neg side of the other pack via
the common rail why dont i get a short?

Short answer: because electricity doesn't work like that - it's all
relative. So providing there is only one side cross connected anywhere
(which is the case with a common return and Märklin controllers as they
each have their own transformer) then if you join them together one one
side that simply becomes a common voltage between the two. Join both
together and bad things happen.

If you join one side together and then connect a voltmeter across the
other two you'd see a voltage that varied according to how you turned the
knobs. With one on zero and the other turned you will see the voltage for
that one (-8 to +8 or thereabouts), turn them both the same way and you
will see a low voltage or even 0 if they were turned the same amount.
That is of course the normal case when you run a train between loops -
there is little voltage difference between the two loops.

The bad case is if you turn the knobs in opposite directions, you will
then see up to + or -16v on the voltmeter, which is more than the models
are designed to take in normal use.

They are a good deal more robust than you might think however because
they are designed to survive a variety of situations where the model
carries more power than you would like - just as they get a certain
amount of 'will it bounce' considered in the design strength.

Other scenarios that are usually considered in designing models include

- derailment where one truck comes off the track and ends up with the
   wheels shorting the other rail. At this point the short is through the
   wires in the locomotive

- Similarly where a locomotive moves from one section to another which
   already contains a locomotive that is currently not being fed power. At
   that point the second locomotive is potentially being powered through
   the wiring of the first.

- Running through electrofrog points the wrong way

- Putting a locomotive using overhead on the track the wrong way around

But 16v across a model designed for 8 isn't very good for it - especially
if its more than briefly.

Alan

thank you
how come my meter reads 14v dc on a marklin z power pack with no load on the
track when model max is 8v dc


can i isolate the other rail by putting a cut in the uncut rail on a marklin
8588 isolation track or will that not work


tony



--- On Tue, 8/3/10, Alan Cox <alan@...> wrote:

> From: Alan Cox <alan@...>
> Subject: Re: [Z_Scale] Re: Z SCALE
> To: z_scale@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 3, 2010, 5:04 PM
> > what i dont understand is when
> both loops are in difference directions then i have the plus
> side of one pack connected to the neg side of the other pack
> via the common rail why dont i get a short?
>
> Short answer: because electricity doesn't work like that -
> it's all
> relative. So providing there is only one side cross
> connected anywhere
> (which is the case with a common return and Märklin
> controllers as they
> each have their own transformer) then if you join them
> together one one
> side that simply becomes a common voltage between the two.
> Join both
> together and bad things happen.
>
> If you join one side together and then connect a voltmeter
> across the
> other two you'd see a voltage that varied according to how
> you turned the
> knobs. With one on zero and the other turned you will see
> the voltage for
> that one (-8 to +8 or thereabouts), turn them both the same
> way and you
> will see a low voltage or even 0 if they were turned the
> same amount.
> That is of course the normal case when you run a train
> between loops -
> there is little voltage difference between the two loops.
>
> The bad case is if you turn the knobs in opposite
> directions, you will
> then see up to + or -16v on the voltmeter, which is more
> than the models
> are designed to take in normal use.
>
> They are a good deal more robust than you might think
> however because
> they are designed to survive a variety of situations where
> the model
> carries more power than you would like - just as they get a
> certain
> amount of 'will it bounce' considered in the design
> strength.
>
> Other scenarios that are usually considered in designing
> models include
>
> - derailment where one truck comes off the track and ends
> up with the
>   wheels shorting the other rail. At this point the
> short is through the
>   wires in the locomotive
>
> - Similarly where a locomotive moves from one section to
> another which
>   already contains a locomotive that is currently not
> being fed power. At
>   that point the second locomotive is potentially
> being powered through
>   the wiring of the first.
>
> - Running through electrofrog points the wrong way
>
> - Putting a locomotive using overhead on the track the
> wrong way around
>
> But 16v across a model designed for 8 isn't very good for
> it - especially
> if its more than briefly.
>
> Alan
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Z-scale:  minimum siZe, MAXIMUM enjoyment!
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     z_scale-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 13:34:11 -0700 (PDT)
Tony Dalileo <tony_mrr@...> wrote:

> thank you
> how come my meter reads 14v dc on a marklin z power pack with no load on the
track when model max is 8v dc

Put a load on it.

The newer ones are also quite smart and don't simply output 0-8v smoothed
DC but know how to give better motor control than that.